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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
日曜の夜を迎えた日比谷は、静けさよりも熱を帯びていた。ペニンシュラホテルの前にそびえるツリーは、街を行き交う人々の視線を集め、冬空を背景に誇らしげに輝く。大手町方面へ連なる並木道は、黄金の灯を点々とつなぎ、まるで都市の血管のように明滅していた。十二月の冷気は鋭いが、胸の奥にだけは温度が残り、歩みを進めるたびに、何かが始まる気配が確かにあった。
「割烹 瑞兆」は、ペニンシュラ東京の4階に昨年4月にひっそりと据えられた日本料理店。檜の一枚板が伸びるカウンターには、組子細工の影が柔らかく沈み、陶芸家の器がまるで呼吸するように静かに佇む。ここでは、旬の食材が料理人の手で次々と姿を変え、刺身も天ぷらも煮物も、一つの物語として連なっていくらしい。コースごとに季節の輪郭が浮かび上がり、日本酒やワインがその輪郭をさらに深める。二十席ほどの空間は、声を潜めた会話さえ澄んで響き、特別な時間を預けるのに十分な余白を持っている。
本日は、以下のコースをいただいた。
●おまかせコース
山口県 澄川酒造とのコラボ
精米28（あいやま）38%（山田錦）
◇先付け
・焼き香箱蟹の蟹酢餡かけ
焼き上げた香箱蟹は、殻の奥に冬の密度を閉じ込めていた。兵庫のセイコガニならではのきめ細かな甘みを、蟹酢の柔らかな酸が静かに引き締める。一口で、海の記憶が鮮明に立ち上がるような余韻を残す先付けだ。
◇肉物
・和牛ヒレカツ（木の芽塩 山葵）
A5の中でも最高位のグレードであるBMS12の米沢牛は、歯を入れた瞬間に驚くほど静かにほどける。低温調理が引き出した清らかな旨みを、木の芽塩は香りで押し上げ、山葵は凛と整える。添えられた安納芋の天ぷらが、甘みの対比で皿全体を一段深く仕立てていた。
◇椀替り
・蓮根胡麻豆腐の揚げ出し（才巻海老 人参 なめこ 三つ葉）
揚げ出しに仕立てた胡麻豆腐は、蓮根の薄片を抱き込み、香ばしさの中に静かな歯触りを忍ばせる。才巻海老やなめこが旨みの層を重ね、椀の景色に奥行きを与えていた。
◇お造り
・メジマグロの黄身醤油がけ
青森のメジマグロは、若い身ならではの清い旨みが際立つ。黄身醤油がその輪郭を艶やかに仕上げ、一口で静かな余熱が広がる。
・とら河豚の薄造り
透けるほどの繊細さに気配を宿す。炊いたあん肝をそっと包めば、淡さと濃厚が交差し、一瞬だけ時間が止まるほどの美味しさだった。
◇一品
・からすみ蕎麦
蕎麦出汁のジュレが、喉に落ちる瞬間に静かな旨みを放ち、その上を刻んだからすみが豊かな塩香で覆い尽くす。蕎麦は凛としながらも滑らかで、一口ごとに構成の巧さが際立つ一品だ。
◇鍋物
・和牛サーロインしゃぶ鍋（九条葱しろ菜 京揚げ 葛切り）
常陸牛のサーロインは、出汁に触れた瞬間から香りを放つ。鰹の澄んだ旨みと牛出汁の厚みが半々で寄り添い、肉の甘みを静かに押し上げる。九条葱やしろ菜、京揚げがそれぞれの役目で鍋に立体感をつくり、葛切りが余情をまとめるように全体をすっと整えていく。
◇寿司
・雲丹と本まぐろの手巻き
炙った海苔の香りがまず鼻を擽り、そこに大間の本まぐろが静かに身を横たえる。粒立ちのいい雲丹が甘みの層を重ね、刻んだべったら漬けが軽い衝撃のように余白へ明るさを落とす。赤酢のシャリがすべてをひとつに束ね、噛むほどに味の輪郭が深まっていく。思わず言葉を忘れるほどの手巻きだ。
◇食事
・鰤の照り焼きご飯 香の物
照り焼きにした鰤は、脂の甘さと火入れの香りが穏やかに立ち上がり、鰹の粗出汁と上品な一番出汁が混ざり合うご飯にそっと溶け込む。出汁で炊いた昆布の香の物が締め役として冴え、続くアサリ出汁のお茶漬けは思わず息を呑む旨さ。箸が止まらず、気づけば何度もおかわりしていた。
◇デザート
・苺パフェ
苺のババロアがふくよかな甘みで迎え入れ、上に重なる自家製バニラが静かに輪郭を整える。ツリーを模した淡い緑の最中は軽やかな食感で全体を弾ませる仕掛けだ。
緑茶と金木犀を合わせた香り高い一杯とともに味わえば、デザートがひとつの物語として立ち上がる。
言葉では表現しきれないほどの、素晴らしい時間であった。
店を出ると、腹の底に静かな熱が灯っていた。ペニンシュラのロビーを抜け、回転扉によって外に出た瞬間、外気が一気に輪郭を取り戻す。日比谷の並木には無数の光が漂い、歩くたびに足元へこぼれ落ちては消えていく。満ち足りた余韻を抱え、街のきらめきの中へ紛れ込むと、自分の物語だけがそっと夜に書き足されていくようだった。
是非また伺わせていただきます。
ご馳走様でした。