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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
正月の浮つきがようやく剥がれ落ちた恵比寿の夜。寒波が街を覆い、吐く息は白く、アスファルトの上で静かにほどけていく。仕事初めを終えた人々の足取りには、今年という時間の重さがすでに滲んでいた。ネオンに照らされたビルの谷間を抜けながら、この街が抱える無数の物語の一つに、知らぬ間に足を踏み入れている気がしていた。
恵比寿と広尾の狭間に、昨年の春ひっそりと灯りをともした「ゆうゆ」は、渋谷で名を上げた人気店｢うゆう｣の血脈を静かに受け継ぐ店。
藁の炎で魚を炙るたび、季節の匂いが立ちのぼり、素材の輪郭がくっきりと浮かび上がる。
薄明かりの店内では、ハイカウンター越しに包丁の音と火の気配が交差し、テーブル席や小さな個室には、言葉を少なくして酒と皿に向き合う大人たちの時間が流れている。ここでは、海の恵みが一夜を静かに支配するようだ。
本日は以下の料理をいただいた。
◇お造り少しずつ盛り合わせ
・メジマグロの藁焼き
・ヒラスズキ
・ボタンエビ
藁の香をまとったメジマグロの力強さに、ヒラスズキの澄んだ旨み、ボタンエビのとろける甘みが寄り添う。塩や山葵で輪郭を際立たせ、和からしで意外な奥行きを引き出す、計算された三重奏。
◇きのこと鰤竜田揚げサラダ
揚げたての鰤は衣の香ばしさの奥に、ふくよかな脂と旨みをたたえ、きのこの滋味深い香りと溶け合う。軽やかなサラダ仕立てが後味を引き締め、重さを感じさせないのが心憎い。
◇名物 藁焼き鴨ドッグ
ふっくら蒸された饅頭を割れば、藁の香をまとった鴨の艶やかな旨みが立ち上がる。白髪ネギの清涼感とキュウリの歯触りが脂の甘さを洗い、濃厚なタレが全体を北京ダックのような艶やかな一体感へと導く。指でつまめる軽やかさの裏に、酒を呼ぶ確かな重みを忍ばせた名物。
◇藁焼き帆立バター
藁で炙った帆立は、表面に香ばしさをまといながら中はみずみずしく、バターのコクがその甘みを艶やかに押し出す。海苔で包めば、磯の香りがふわりと重なり、海と火と乳脂が一瞬で溶け合う。口中に残るのは、あとを引く旨みの余韻。
◇鹿島産焼き地蛤
鹿島の地蛤は、殻がはじけるほどに火を受け、身から澄んだ旨みがあふれ出す。そこへライムをひと搾りすれば、柑橘の鋭さが甘い潮の香りを引き締め、輪郭のくっきりした味わいに変わる。シンプルでいて、奥行きと説得力がある一皿。
◇本鮪カマトロレアカツ
衣の中に閉じ込められた本鮪のカマトロは、刃を入れるとサーモンピンクの艶を残したまま、とろりとほどける。濃厚な脂に自家製タルタルの酸味とコクが絡み、揚げ物でありながら後味は驚くほど軽やか。刺身とフライの境界線を鮮やかに越える、背徳と上品さが同居した一品。
◇鰆と生麩の揚げだし
ふんわりと揚がった鰆は、淡い脂の甘みを湛え、生麩のもっちりとした食感とだしの深みに抱かれる。口に含めば、油の軽やかさと旨みが静かにほどけ、和の輪郭がくっきりと浮かび上がる。派手さを排した、しみじみと落ち着く味だった。
◇揚げ海老パン（自家製海老塩で）
サクッと揚がった食パンの軽快な歯触りの奥から、海老のすり身がぷりりと弾け、甘い旨みを広げる。そこに車海老の殻から引き出した自家製塩が振りかかると、香ばしさとミネラル感が一気に輪郭を与える。屋台の気軽さと料理人の技巧が同居する、あと引く逸品。
◇藁焼き鮭玉ごはん
藁で炙った鮭のほぐし身は、スモーキーな香ばしさと旨みをまとって白飯に雪崩れ込み、そこへ濃厚な卵黄がとろりと絡む。まるで漬けのような深いコクが全体を包み、ひと匙ごとに火と海と黄身の甘さが重なっていく。締めでありながら、さらに食欲をかきたてる魔性のごはん。
皿の記憶がまだ舌に残るまま外に出ると、恵比寿の裏道には人影もまばらだった。湿った冬の空気が頬を刺し、さきほどまでの藁の香りをゆっくりと現実へ引き戻す。足音だけを連れて歩きながら、あの夜の味と火の気配が、静かな街の奥へ溶けていくのを感じていた。
是非また伺わせていただきます。ご馳走様でした。