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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
はじめてうかがいました。今回はランチで。
虎ノ門ヒルズの建物内とはいえ、入り口ドアは建物の外側にあります。
11:45頃から入店可能で、ウェイティングルームでウェルカムドリンクをいただけるとのこと。
ドア前でお客さんが待ち構えており一斉に入っていきます。当たり前ですがスタッフの案内は少々もたつき。
ウェルカムドリンクはホットワインで、冷えた身体が温まりました。ただスタッフ2人はそこまでウェルカミングな雰囲気ではありません。このエントランスの案内は少し惜しかったな。ディズニーランドのホーンテッドマンションのアトラクション乗る前の部屋みたいな感じです。
奥のドアが開き、カウンターへ。
シェフのお仕事を見ながら食事できる劇場型です。
最初のひと皿(越前蟹)から美味しくて、蟹の身たっぷりで、テンションがあがります。柑橘のアクセントもいい。
続く百合根。糖度高くて、揚げた食感もいいのですが、キャビアと一緒に食べることの相乗効果はあまり感じられませんでした。合わなくもない、という感じです。繋ぐものがあればもう少しよかったかも？ただキャビアはたっぷりでした。
その後のとろ鰆。美味しい。火入れが抜群。パリッとした皮目もミキュイな感じの身も素敵。ソースはここでもちょっと酸味&柑橘という感じで前の2皿と似てる。
そしてスペシャリテというサラダ。ふぐの揚げたものが入って、黒トリュフがふんだんに削られて出てくる。ふぐは美味しいし野菜も美味しいのだけど、この組み合わせに説得力はあまりなかっ
た。ふぐは別でも良かった。見た目は綺麗。
そしてカラスミそば。これは過去新橋のとあるお店でハマって食べていたので親しみがあった。ここのは自家製麺で洗練されている。これも柑橘のアクセントが効いている。
クエ。鰆とどう変化をつけてくるのかなと思っていたが、まず身が美味しい。ぶりんとした弾力。そしてまたしても酸味の効いた、こってりめのソース。食べてるうちに味の構成のお決まりのパターンが見えてくるというか、どのお皿もなんとなく読めるというか、予想がつくようになってくるな…
メインは鴨。お客さんが来る前から火を入れていたんですよと説明があった。
この鴨は普通の鴨のように血抜きをしないから味が濃いんだとシェフが教えてくれた。なるほど確かにジビエ！って感じのミネラル感がある。しっかり血肉の味がする。しかもそれが嫌な臭みもなく、(またしても)酸味のあるソースとうまく調和している。赤みの部分はたしかに美味しい。
だけど皮。私は鴨って皮の部分が美味しいと感じるので、この皮は細かく切り目を入れて焼いてるうちに脂を全部流してしまっていて、皮を美味しく味わうことが出来なかったように思う。ちょっと残念。
オマール海老のリゾット。
これまでのような主張がなく、小休止的な優しさがあった。のせてあるトマトとベルガモットのオイルの相性がいい。でも、もう少し味が欲しかった。コメとトマトの架け橋が欲しかった。チーズとかで繋いだらいいんじゃないかと思ったりした。
デザート。
かなりインパクトがあった。特に1つめのデザート。北海道のマンゴーと紅まどんなを使ったパフェのようなひと品。フルーツの繊細な味を損なわずに、みずみずしいまま食べられて、しかもベースのムースは本当にほどよい甘さ、酸味、ハーブの香りで見事に主役のフルーツを引き立てている。こんなレベルの高い、大人のデザート、なかなか食べられない。拍手したいくらいだった。
次のいちご、あまりんのデザートは、1つ目に比べるとやや霞んでしまうが、シャンパンを注ぐアイデアもいいし、バラの風味もよかった。ただバラの白玉は… これが入ると急に和、アジアンなデザートになる。それならそれで、思い切ってアジアンなおいしさを追求しても良かったのでは？なんとなく方向性に迷ったようなひと皿だった。
オリジナルのハーブティーもデセールも言うことなし。焼きたてのフィナンシェ、どこまでも妥協を許さない抹茶タルト。
最後までたいへん美味しかった。
ご馳走様でした。