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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
富山県南砺市・利賀村にあるレヴォへ。
山に囲まれた場所で頂くコースは、薪火を軸にしながら、
土地や季節の空気を丁寧にすくい取ったような構成でした。
最初に、楓の樹液を盃でひと口。
甘さは控えめで、森の水を飲んでいるような感覚。
Prologue
最初はアミューズがいくつか続く導入。森や発酵、海を思わせる要素が少しずつ現れ、これから始まる流れを静かに示してくれます。
ビーツのメレンゲで鶏レバームースをサンドしたものは色鮮やか。
富山らしく、白エビをもち米のせんべいに載せたものや、グジェール、甘鯛のコロッケ、真牡蠣のフリっとなどが美しく盛り付けられています。
カワハギ
鮮度の良さが素直に伝わる一皿。何と、30分前に捌いたばかり。
きものソースと西洋わさび、木の実の、コクのある要素と香りが重なり、強く主張するというより、じわじわと印象に残る味わい。
序盤ながら、この店の方向性がはっきり見える料理でした。
太刀魚
ズッキーニや加賀太胡瓜とミルフィーユのように層になっています。
炭や薪の香りをまとわせた仕立て。魚の旨みと野菜の甘みが無理なくつながり、火入れの的確さが感じられます。自然の香ばしさが心地よい一皿。
月ノ輪熊
ひらたけ、菊芋、あざみのピューレなど、山の食材を思わせる要素を組み合わせた構成。
水蛸
斬新な見た目。ナウシカの王蟲を連想してしまいました。
火入れによる食感の変化が楽しい一皿。大葉のオイルや紫蘇のスプラウトで、香りのアクセントが加わり、口の中が一度リセットされるような感覚があります。
アオリイカ
貝のクリーミーなソースがやわらかな旨みを引き出した仕立て。
海の食材でありながら、まこもだけや雑穀の要素が入り、大地のニュアンスも感じる一皿。
大門素麺
実はコースで一番好みだったのがこちら。山羊のチーズと蕗の薹のオイルが使われ乳化していて、優しい甘みと軽さがあり、かなり好みな一皿でした。
L'evo鶏
この店を象徴する一皿。若鶏に熊の脂、内臓、米を詰めて薪火で。薪の香りと内側からにじむ旨みが印象に残ります。
赤蕪
ハーブを乳化したソースのサラダ仕立て。
土や大地を連想させるアプローチ。焼畑をイメージしたとのこと。
サーブ前に見せていただいた腐葉土と塩の塩釜が印象的。
サワラ
トマトの酸味と鰆の香ばしさのバランスが良く、魚の上品さが引き立つ仕立て。
貴腐ワインでマリネしたとのこと。
日本鹿
熟成による深みがありながら、火入れは端正。野性味と品の良さが共存していて、メインとしての満足感があります。
舞茸とほうれん草が添えられていました。
キウイ
ヨーグルトの球体で爽やかな酸味を軸にしたデザート。森の香りの泡状のソースと。
あんぽ柿
ゆずパウダーがかかっていました。やさしい甘さで静かに締めくくる一皿。
そして、豪華なミニャルディーズまで。
ムース、桑の茶のシューアイス、りんごのタルト、フランボワーズとミルクの生キャラメルなどなど。
最後まで自然の流れを崩さず、コース全体の印象をきれいにまとめていました。
料理は終始、土地や火との向き合い方が一貫していて、
この場所で食事をしていると、
自然の中で生きていたものの時間を引き継いでいるような感覚になりました。
一皿ごとに、命を頂くという行為の重みを静かに思い出させてくれる貴重な体験。。
利賀村という土地で、この料理を食べる意味を、自然と考えさせられる時間でした。
わざわざ足を運ぶ価値のある素晴らしい一軒。