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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
心斎橋の喧騒から一歩足を踏み入れると、そこは蕎麦の奥深い世界が広がる静謐な空間。
以前から気になっていた「街蕎 仁ト伍」さんへ、食通の知人と共に訪問が叶いました。
コースは16,500円のおまかせ一本。お酒はペアリング（3種・5種）も楽しめます。
カウンターに座ると、まず見せていただいたのは2種類の蕎麦の実。殻のついた「玄そば」と、殻を剥いた「丸抜き」。そして、僅かに芽を出した一粒。これから始まる蕎麦の世界への入り口です。このプレゼンテーションだけで、店主の並々ならぬこだわりがひしひしと伝わってきます。
店主の蕎麦に対する情熱と、女将さんの丁寧で心地よいおもてなし。
珠玉の料理と3種の蕎麦が織りなす、感動のコースの始まりです。
●いただいたお料理
【先付】枝豆
まずは風味豊かな枝豆でスタート。一品目からお酒が進みます。
【茶碗蒸し】鱧と国産松茸
蓋を開けた瞬間に立ち上る、芳醇な香り。お出汁はなんと、鴨の骨ではなく身だけを贅沢に使った濃厚なもの。ふるふるとした卵液の中には、ふっくらとした鱧と秋の味覚の王様・松茸が。
【お椀】とらふぐの白子のすり流し
見た目は白味噌仕立てのようですが、なんとこれは「とらふぐの白子」そのもののすり流し！のどぐろと鰹から取ったという極上のお出汁と合わさり、口の中でとろけるような濃厚な旨味と甘みが広がります。
【お造り①】北海道羅臼 天然ブリ
美しいサシの入ったブリは、手前が脂の乗った「腹」、奥が身の締まった「背」。石川県珠洲の伝統製法「揚げ浜式」で作られた貴重な塩が、ブリの上質な脂の甘みを引き立てます。
【お造り②】北海道根室 さんま
今年のさんまは格別と聞いていましたが、まさにその言葉を体現する一皿。新鮮なさんまを、濃厚な「わた醤油」で和えてあります。
【蕎麦①】熟成蕎麦 埼玉・入間産
まず1種類目の蕎麦。殻ごと挽いた蕎麦を熟成させ、香りを最大限に引き出したもの。沖縄の天日塩「縁結び」を少しつけると、蕎麦本来の甘みが一層際立ちます。
【蕎麦②-1】十割蕎麦 天然きのこと辛味大根のぶっかけ
2種類目は、殻を剥いた丸抜きの蕎麦を石臼で細かく挽いた十割蕎麦。十割とは思えないほど滑らかで、つるりとした喉越し。バターのようなコクのある「網茸」と、食感の楽しい「いぐち茸」、2種類の天然きのこが絶品です。
【蕎麦②-2】十割蕎麦 平打ち
なんと、先ほどの蕎麦を今度は「平打ち」で。あえて氷水で締めず、少し温度を高めにすることで風味を豊かに。同じ蕎麦でも、切り方と温度でこれほどまでに表情が変わるのかと驚かされます。
【焼き物】茨城 野口農園「柳田レンコン」
大正時代から続く農家さんが作るというこだわりのレンコン。シンプルに焼き上げただけなのに、驚くほどの甘みとシャキシャキとした食感。
【強肴】黒毛和牛A5ランク 雌牛ランプ芯の炭火焼き
見事な火入れの施された牛肉。赤身の旨味が凝縮されたランプ芯は、柔らかくジューシー。スペインのフレークソルトやカンボジアの塩漬け胡椒が、その旨味をさらに引き立てます。
【リゾット】そばの実とトリュフ
お米を一切使わない、蕎麦の実だけで作られたリゾotto。プチプチとした食感が楽しく、ポルチーニ茸の出汁とトリュフの官能的な香りがたまりません。
【揚物】子持ち小鮎の蕎麦粉揚げ
琵琶湖でしか獲れないという貴重な子持ちの小鮎を、蕎麦粉の衣で揚げています。サクッとした衣の香ばしさと、鮎のほろ苦さが口の中で一体となります。
【蕎麦③】手挽き蕎麦 島根・三瓶在来
メインの3種類目。店主が2時間かけて手で石臼を回して挽くという、島根の在来種「三瓶在来」を使った粗挽き蕎麦。口に含んだ瞬間に広がる、栗のような甘みと穀物の力強い香り。圧巻のフィナーレです。
【水菓子・小菓子】
島根産の瑞々しい梨と、長崎堂さんの美しい「クリスタルボンボン」で締め。最後の最後まで、こだわりと美意識を感じさせます。
●ペアリングのお酒たち
お料理に合わせて、女将さんがセレクトしてくださる日本酒の数々も素晴らしかったです。
惣誉（栃木）
作（三重）
綾花（福岡）
横山五十（長崎）
竹葉（石川）
日置桜（鳥取）
大嶺（山口）
ちえびじん 百合仕込み（大分）
蕎麦ウイスキー EDDU SILVER（フランス）
料理を引き立てる食中酒から珍しいお酒まで、見事なラインナップでした。
●総評
店主の蕎麦への深い知識と探究心、それを支える確かな技術。「熟成」と「フレッシュ」、「細切り」と「平打ち」など、様々な角度から蕎麦の魅力を最大限に引き出すコース構成は、もはやエンターテインメントの域です。
蕎麦はもちろん、一品一品の料理に使われる食材へのこだわりも素晴らしく、どの皿も一切の妥協がありません。女将さんの穏やかで丁寧な接客も心地よく、最高の時間を過ごすことができました。
蕎麦好きはもちろん、日本の食文化の奥深さに触れたい全ての方に、心からお勧めしたい名店です。
美味しかったです♫
ごちそうさまでした。