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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
広島の中心部にひっそり佇む「中土」は、瀬戸内の海と中国山地の里山がそのまま一皿に降りてきたようなガストロノミー。重厚な木のカウンターに腰掛けると、火入れや仕上げが数十センチ先で進み、香りや音まで体験の一部になります。
照度はやや落として料理にスポット、器は土ものや金属を織り交ぜてテクスチャーの対比を愉しませてくれます。席数は多くないので静けさもごちそう。サービスは言葉選びが丁寧で、食材の背景や生産者の紹介を欠かさないスタイル。アクセスは中心街から徒歩圏で、路面電車やバスでも向かいやすい立地です。
ペアリングは泡→白→日本酒→赤→デザートワインの緩やかな起伏で、料理の輪郭をくっきりと見せてくれました。
この日の序章はとうもろこし「ゴールドラッシュ」のスープ。口に含むと蜜のようなコクがふわっと広がり、後から皮を焼いた香りが追いかけてきます。甘みだけに寄らず青さをほんのり残す設計で、夏の入り口に立つ気分。
続くアミューズは南仏のパニス。ひよこ豆の粉のほっくり感に、キャビアの塩味と柚子の香りがピンと一本芯を通します。サイズは小さくても印象は大。渡蟹とお米のサラダはシェリーとアップルビネガーの酸が実に巧みで、内子とトリュフの香りをふっくら膨らませます。お米は過度に粘らせず粒で立たせ、口の中で蟹の甘みとほどけ合う感じが心地よいです。
彩りのマイクロリーフサラダは、北広島の野菜を焼く・乾燥・マリネと処理を変えて集合させた一皿。泡立てたヴィネグレットが全体を軽く包み、同じ素材でも温度や触感が変わるだけで味の表情が幾通りにも増えることを体感させてくれます。皿の上に小さな菜園が出現したみたいで可憐。
海からは瀬戸内のオコゼ。じゅんさいのぷるりとした食感に、柑橘とハーブ、そして指先ほどの酸味の粒が涼風を連れてきます。身は透明感を残した火入れで、噛むほどに旨みが染み出すタイプ。
次の雲丹は地茄子のソースに瀬戸内と周防大島の2種を重ね、甘さの質の違いを楽しませる趣向。香りのレイヤーが何枚も重なるのに重たくならないのは、油の量と酸の角度が絶妙だからこそ。
火入れの妙技が際立ったのは黒瀬のナマズ。ガストロバックを使って骨周りまで丁寧に処理し、セモリナ粉でさっくりフリット。
グリーンカレーをイメージしたソースは香りを借りる程度で辛さは控えめ。エシャロットやズッキーニ、タイ米がアクセントになって、香りの立ち上がりと食感のコントラストが見事でした。山の章は安芸高田の鹿タン。炭焼きで表面を香ばしく、中心はみずみずしいピンク。鹿の出汁を煮詰めたソースが旨みをぎゅっと凝縮しつつも、過剰に重ねない上品なまとめ方です。
そして椀。藤本さんの鱧は、炙ってから蒸して花を咲かせ、骨から引いたコンソメで包む構成。仕上げの生姜オイルが香りをきゅっと引き締め、舌の上でふわっとほどけていく瞬間は思わず目を閉じたくなる幸福感。ここからトーンを一気に変えて、イカとトリュフの濃厚な一皿へ。トリュフのピュレとパルミジャーノのコクに、イカの甘みと火入れによる弾力が負けません。削ったトリュフの香りが立ちのぼるタイミングまで計算されていて、香りのピークで届けるプロの仕事。
魚の大詰めは1kg超のイサキ。皮目は炭火でパリッと、身はふっくらしっとり。瀬戸内の海水ミネラルをイメージしたソースは、塩味の角をオリーブオイルで優しく丸め、海の輪郭をくっきり描きます。
イサキに関しては「どのように焼いているか」を事細かに説明していただきました。私が「そんなに言っちゃっていいんですか？僕が飲食関係者だったら真似しちゃいますよ？」などという掛け合いも。中土さん以外この焼き方は不可能なので教えても問題ないそうです笑
僕がシェフ志望だったら、中土さんに従事したいなと思わされる一品でした。
肉の締めはイノシシ。ザワークラウトの酸で脂の重さを軽やかにしつつ、イノシシの出汁を煮詰めたソースがワイルドな旨みをエレガントに整える、完成度の高い一皿でした。猟師としてイノシシはこのような食べ方をしないのでやはりお店でいただくジビエはいいですね！
甘味は柑橘のせとかで口中をリフレッシュし、ソーテルヌの蜜の香りとぴったり調和。続くアムスメロンとブランマンジェにはホワイトバルサミコの穏やかな酸を合わせ、甘さを品よくチューニング。最後のカヌレは保命酒を利かせた和の余韻で、ほんのり薬草のニュアンスが広がります。焼きの外殻はカリッと、中はしっとり、食後酒代わりになる大人の一口でした。
総じて「中土」は、技術やセンスの前に“素材への敬意”が立ち上がるお店。ひと皿出るたびに産地や作り手のストーリーが添えられ、私たち食べ手の理解が深まるのが素敵です。器やカトラリーの選びも料理の質感を引き立て、空間・音・香りまで含めた体験設計が徹底。
予約は早めがおすすめ、香りの強い香水は控えめが安心。食べ手の好奇心に応えてくれる対話型のサービスなので、苦手食材やペアリングの好みも事前に相談するとより満足度が上がります。広島に来たらわざわざ時間を空けてでも訪れたい、そして東京や海外でも十分戦える完成度を備えた、未来志向の一軒です。次の季節の表現にも、また会いに行きたくなりました。
●星の定義
☆3つ以下→一度の訪問でOK
☆3.5つ→ コスパ、味、雰囲気、サービスが平均値をやや上回っている
☆4つ→ コスパ、味、雰囲気、サービスが平均値をかなり上回っており、家族や友人に自信を持っておすすめできる
☆4.5つ → コスパ、味、雰囲気、サービスが平均値を圧倒的に上回っており、誰もが一度は行くべきお店
☆5つ→ 筆舌に尽くしがたい
●自己紹介
年間1,000件程度の外食をさせていただいています。訪問飲食店さんの定量数は必ずしも大事ではないと思いますが、質を求めるにはまず量ということで胃を酷使しています。
自らも猟師を行い肉へのこだわりは人一倍強く、日本全国の生産者のところへ行き食材の勉強も欠かしません。