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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
山梨県富士吉田市。富士急ハイランドからの歓声が聞こえるような距離。立地から「絶対、観光客目当ての店だろう」なんて考えてしまいますが、すぐにその不明を恥じることになります。鮨ネタ、技術そして当然お値段も、街寿司とは明確に一線を画した一流店です。
初球から豪速球。周防大島の塩水仕込みの赤ウニと富山の白海老。藻塩で頂くウニの甘さに絶句。
あと添えられた山葵の風味の豊かさが、尋常ではありません。名水で名高い地域ですが、近所の山葵農家で鮨店用の品種を栽培してもらい、数時間前に収穫してきたものだそうです。店裏の定置網で獲れた魚を握る鮨屋には行ったことがありますが、山葵の採れたてを出してくれる店は初めてです。
鮮烈な香りと辛味が、魚介の味をより太く鋭敏にするようです。
カペリンではない本物のオスのししゃもの天麩羅。頬張ると、なんとも言えないよい香りが鼻に抜けます。儚いほどふわふわとした身の食感と、上品な塩気。
立派な松茸がどん、と山盛にされてカウンターの上に。こちらも地元産の富士松茸。松茸の産地ではないと思うのですが、よい赤松の林があるそうです。暖かいおかげでぎりぎり、我々は間に合ったのでしょう。おそらく今年最後の収穫。
12日間寝かせて、旨味が頂点を迎えた北海道産の鰤の皮目をパリパリに焼いたものと、甘口の餡で合わせたお椀でいただきます。これも山葵が絶妙に味を引き締めます。
北海道産の蝦蛄。浜茹を炙って握ります。焦げ目をつけられた甲殻類固有の旨みが口内爆発！噛み締めると繊維の間から、なんとも言えない滋味が滲み出てきます。
閖上の赤貝。目の前で開けて、洗います。ヒモはどうするのか、食い意地の張っている私は気になって仕方ありません。まだサイズが小振りなので、今日はヒモも一緒に握ってくれるそうです。これも強靭。貝の生命力を感じさせます。磯の香りを超えて、貝の甘味が舌に届きます。
鮪は塩釜。旋網の130キロもの。中トロと赤身の漬け。いい感じで水気が抜けていて、爽やかですが味の濃い鮪です。中トロの飾り包丁はスジにあてるためではなく、脂が弾く醤油をネタに載せやすくするためだそうです。
この後も、穴子の白焼、下北のむらさきウニ、北海道の牡丹海老と続きますが、終盤近くにまた豪速球が…
浜中のバフン雲丹を潰してジュレ状にしたものに酢飯を絡めて、毛蟹と白鮭のいくらを添えたご飯。雲丹、蟹、いくらの連合軍は、ストラヴィンスキーのバレエ3部作くらい強烈。特にいくらの風味がとても清澄で驚きました。舌の上で蕩けるようです。河口ではなく、沖で揚げた鮭の卵じゃないとこの食感にならないそうです。
この後にさらに、松茸とトロ鰆の焼物のお椀、鮪のすなずりの鉄火、追加でお願いした山葵の効いた干瓢巻を頂き、めでたくトドメを刺されました…
約2時間半。一瞬の弛緩もなく、高級食材の怒涛の攻めに寄り切られた感じです。ただし、食材の力に任せた荒業という感じは微塵もなく、どの料理や握りも、味がとても澄んでいて、雑味がありません。天ぷらなどもあったのに、食後感が非常に爽やかです。
ご主人の人懐っこい気さくな応対と、ファミリービジネスであることから来る安心感も相まってか、ギラついた商売っ気を感じさせない雰囲気も魅力的です。大満足です。