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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
名古屋・泉
輝泉。
全8席のカウンターは、過度な演出を排し、
職人の手仕事と向き合うための距離だけが用意されている。
【江戸前鮨おまかせ 伊万里コース】は、
量でも豪華さでもなく、流れの美しさで魅せる構成。
てっぴに始まり、トラフグ、アカガイ、中トロ。
序盤から味を重ねすぎず、輪郭だけを丁寧に残す。
蛤の吸い物で一度整え、
毛蟹とアイスプラントが舌を静かに切り替える。
八寸は多彩だが、騒がしくない。
松前漬け、赤なまこ、子持ち昆布、バイ貝。
生麩の照り焼き、合鴨とからすみクリームチーズ。
酒を呼びつつ、鮨の流れを崩さない塩梅だ。
まながつお西京焼きの火入れ、
フグ唐揚げの軽やかさで、店の基礎体力が見えてくる。
後半の鮨は、赤酢のシャリが主張せず支える役。
イカ、鯖、のどぐろ、漬けマグロ、車海老。
温度と間が、一貫の完成度を底上げしている。
印象に残ったのは
トラフグ白子のリゾット風。
余韻だけを深く残す一皿だった。
そして食後、
八寸で供されたからすみをお持ち帰りで購入。
家でゆっくり味わうのもいいし、
酒好きへの手土産にも間違いない。
派手な言葉はいらない。
静かに通いたくなる鮨。