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「鮨さいとう」の齋藤孝司氏の一番弟子として長年腕を磨いた齋藤俊治氏が、2020年に独立し「鮨しゅんじ」を開業。2023年には元麻布に移転し、さらに洗練された舞台となった。
包丁を持つ姿、鮨を握る指先——俊治氏の所作はまるで日本人形のように凛として美しい。静かに見惚れるゲストの姿も少なくない。
普段は柔らかい笑顔を見せる大将だが、料理に向かう瞬間は一変。店内の空気がピンと張り詰め、まるで月のように静かな存在感が空間を支配する。
奥様はソムリエで、その可愛らしさとハギレの良さで、素晴らしいワインを提供してくれます。
看板の一つ「すじこの鮨」は、シンプルながらも職人の矜持が詰まった一貫。
見た目のインパクトとは裏腹に、漬けによる余計な塩味はなく、魚卵の旨みそのものが際立つ。海苔に負けないすじこの風味が口の中にふわりと広がり、数秒で消えていく儚い美味。
“素材を生かすとはこういうことか”と唸らされる一皿だった。
とにかく予約困難である事は間違いないが、一度は行って欲しいお店です。