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蛤の出汁
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地物の平目 当日水揚げ
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佐賀県唐津産ぶり
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平貝
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揚げ車麩とアン肝ペースト、シチリア産ピスタチオと共に
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穴子の稚魚、愛媛県産じょばら酢と共に
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車海老 頭
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車海老
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鹿児島県産そら豆
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島根県宍道湖産白魚
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蕗の薹
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見て！この大ぶり貝柱。並ぶと圧巻！
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帆立貝柱。層が、、、
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帆立貝柱
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筍
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牡蠣
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茨城県産浮島蓮根
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熊本県産ばってん茄子
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とらふぐ白子
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椎茸
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穴子
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天丼
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天バラ
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さつまいも天ぷらと自家製ジェラート
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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
二月の「天風良にい留」へ
今回の訪問で幸いにも四期連続で来ることができました。こちらの屋号は「天風良にい留」。今まで知っていた天ぷらとは一線を画す天風良という存在。衣と水分量について、揚げの温度管理など新留大将の探究談はまるで科学の講義のよう。行く度に進化する。いつまでも通い続けたいお店。
まずは天ぷらの前の一品から
①蛤の出汁
②地物ヒラメ 当日水揚げ
③佐賀県唐津産のぶり
④平貝
⑤揚げ車麩とアン肝ペースト、シチリア産ピスタチオと共に
⑥穴子の稚魚、愛媛県産じょばら酢と共に
どれもお酒が進む一品ばかり。天ぷら前に酒が進みます。
こここら天ぷらへ
①車海老 頭
②車海老
③アオリイカ
④鹿児島県産そら豆
⑤島根県宍道湖産白魚
特に白魚は素晴らしかったですね。目などを一本ずつ取り苦味を感じる部位を取るという手の入れ様。一匹一匹の集合体なのに一つの身のように感じてしまう。なんとフワフワなんだろう。
⑥帆立貝柱
大ぶりの貝柱を丸ごとひとつ。言うまでもないですが、火の通しが相変わらず絶妙で中央のレア感が素敵すぎます。火の通り方で味わい、食感が違う。素材の甘味・旨味の出方がとても楽しい。
⑦筍
筍は出汁で下味を付けた後に揚げる。焦げはわざと狙ってやっていると大将の言。
ホクホクと焦げの渋味が混合する。
⑧牡蠣
ミルキーな旨味たっぷり
⑨茨城県産浮島蓮根
蓮根はまるでトウモロコシのような甘み。これが本来の素材の味なのかと驚嘆。
⑩熊本県産ばってん茄子
茄子は定番ながらも相変わらずの美味しさ。
⑪とらふぐ白子
白子は、これを揚げたら油を変える必要があるとの大将の言。蕩ける味わいと薬味で味変も楽しめる。
⑫椎茸
椎茸は定番ネタなれど、表面の水分の抜け方と中心部の瑞々しさとの違いが分かると思う。
旨味が凝縮されていて、個人的には推しネタ。
⑬穴子
穴子はにい留天風良の見所のひとつ。揚げた穴子を箸で二つに割るときに出る水蒸気。ここに新留大将の天ぷらの特徴が見られる場面。臭みの無いクリーンな穴子が味わえる。
締めの丼もの
①天丼
②天バラ
今回は最近出し始めたという噂の天バラと天丼をダブルで頂く。天バラは小海老と貝柱が小気味良く口の中で踊ります。そしてほのかに紫蘇風味のご飯。口福ですね。
デザート
①さつまいも天ぷらと自家製ジェラート
こちらもにい留天風良の見所のひとつ。じっくりと温度管理をしながら揚げたさつまいもは糖が表面で焦げ付きキャラメリゼの様に纏っています。中はねっとりとした甘み。ここにジェラートメーカーで作る自家製ジェラートが加わります。それぞれ単体でもとても美味なれど、合体すると相乗で美味ですね。ジェラートのミルキーな甘みとさつまいもの糖度の高い甘み。決して邪魔をせず引き立て合います。抜群な組み合わせですね。
これにて楽しい宴はお開き。いつ訪れても驚きや進化を感じられる素晴らしいお店です。私はこのお店で天ぷらを知ってしまったので、ここを超える他店に会える日は来るのか甚だ疑問です(笑)
次はいつ伺えるかな。。。