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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
遠刈田温泉にある高級宿です。価格的にふだんはなかなか泊まれるお宿ではありませんが、どうやら温泉好きの間では有名なところらしく、ふるさと納税の割引等も利用して1泊お世話になってみることに。
午後3時過ぎにイン。
温泉街から少し離れた小高いエリアにあります。さすがアプローチから上質ですね。ロビーまで続く長いエントランス、目を奪われる鐘のオブジェ。1つ1つのインテリアも凝っていて、華美すぎず、でもすっきりまとまっていてどこを切り取っても画になる。
しばらく館内を散策し、お湯をいただいて18時から夕餉のはじまり。竈神という名の食事処でたっぷりのコースをいただきます。長い廊下の脇に、中庭を見渡せる個室が配置され、宿泊客それぞれで食事を取ることができる。
まずは生ビールでのどを濡らします。ヱビスビールなのがうれしい。お料理は先付け、小鉢、小皿が先鋒です。特筆すべきは南京すり流しと鼈甲庵ですね。上に鴨ロース煮とトリュフがあしらわれ、こはくのような鼈甲庵の中にフォアグラが埋まっている。様式はフレンチで見るカクテル風のアペリティフですが、かつおのだしが凝縮された上品なゼリーと上に乗るカボチャのすり流し（ムース様のもの）をいただくとあら不思議。カボチャの煮物を彷彿とさせる懐かしい味になります。ふだん見慣れない料理が、よく知るおふくろの味になるという遊び心がニクい。
次鋒は吸い物ですが、カブやニンジンなどのお野菜はもちろん、甘鯛がすばらしいですね。柔らかい旨味が口中に広がって、早速お酒が飲りたくなります。
お造りはマグロ、ソイ、シマアジ、タイ。どれも鮮度抜群ですばらしい。切り身も比較的大きく、食べ応えがあります。献という地元？のお酒の純米吟醸をお供にしてみます。
続くブイヤベースもすばらしいお味ですね。魚介の旨味だけを見事に抽出した一品。ふつうお店で食べると意外と臭かったりするんですが、こちらはひたすら上品。酒が早々に切れたので、地元のワイナリーで醸しているというシードルをいただく。乳酸発酵した上等なジュース。シャンパーニュと同様に瓶内二次発酵で余分な糖分も飛び、甘さも控えめ。ワインほど酸にキレがないので、魚介でもバッチリの相性です。
焼物の数々も趣向を凝らしたものが多い。
どれも逸品なのですが、特に印象に残ったのがナスとたらこの寄せものと、柿の形にしつらえた白玉。たらこの旨味とナス独特の味わいと食感がよく、思わず酒が進んでしまう。白玉は中に牛の時雨煮が入っていて、この意外性に不意打ちをつかれました。
柔らかく、見事な味わいのフィレステーキ。シードルでも合うのですが、やはりこのあたりになると赤ワインでしょうね。シンプルに塩とのあわせが抜群に美味で、脂の甘さが引き立つ。肉の味というよりは、脂がワインや酒と溶け合ったときのハーモニーがたまらないので、和牛というのはやはり脂を味わうものなんでしょう。ワインなら1級か特級畑のブルゴーニュか。むしろ日本酒の方が相性がよいかもしれない。
〆のホタテと生姜の炊き込み御飯も美味。出汁の風味、コメの粒立ち。炊き上がりは完璧ですね。仕上がりに隙がなく、これだけ食べていてもするりと入ってくる。口全体が静かな歓喜に包まれる。デザートも手作りですね。柚子のシャーベットにチョコレートケーキ、杏のタルト。たっぷりと食事をいただいたのに、ついつい手が伸びてしまう。甘さ控えめで香りがよく、この順番で出てくることを緻密に計算した味わい。
朝食のクオリティも、旅館ではこれまでの中でトップクラスでしょうね。
飯は釜炊きのひとめぼれ。おかずの焼き海苔は手作りで塩のみ、湯豆腐用の薬味のカツオ節は炒ってあって香ばしさを最大限、引き出している。サラダのドレッシング、デザートのヨーグルトも手作りですね。それなりのお値段のするお宿で出る朝食と見た目は大差ありませんが、すべてに手が尽くされ、大変おいしくいただきました。
決して目立ちはしないのですが、随所に見え隠れするひと手間、ふた手間がすばらしい。厳選した素材を用い、その味をスポイルしない調理法で最大限、魅力を引き出す。そして材料の切り方や煮方、焼きの入れ方、調味料も手作りで細かく調整されている。料理が強烈な個性を放っているわけではなく、どちらかというと上品でクラシック。しかし、細部にこだわりと手間が光る。個性的なものを食べたり、名物料理をいただくというよりは、一見変哲はなくとも、1つ1つ洗練を追求した品を味わうお宿でしょうね。そういう意味では、どちらかというと食に感度が高く、ある程度経験を積んだ方向け。大人が味わうべきお料理やサービスの数々なのかなとも思います。このお値段まで来ると、さまざまに手間を尽くされた世界を味わえるのだといういい勉強になりました。接客も余計なことはせず、いい意味でドライ。でもこちらが必要とするときは、フレンドリーで気が利いている。懐に余裕ができたら、季節を変えてまた利用してみたいと思わせる宿です。ごちそうさまでした。
（原文ママ）
本日のお献立
先付け 胡桃豆腐 生雲丹 イクラ 花穂 山葵 旨出し
小鉢 南京すり流しと鼈甲庵 鴨ロース煮 フォアグラ トリュフ
小皿 秋の味覚お浸し 糸賀希 絞り酢橘
吸物 甘鯛の葛打ち 蕪六方 熨斗人参 束ね葛切り 鶯菜 柚子
造り 季節の鮮魚 妻物一式
一品 三陸海の幸のブイヤベース
焼物八寸 鰤大根照り焼き 畳鰯雲丹焼き 雪輪蓮根 始神
里芋変わり田楽 松茸新銀杏 蟹安平松風
秋茄子と鱈子の二見寄せ 溶き辛子
柿白玉牛時雨包み 河豚皮酢味噌和え
肉料理 仙台牛フィレステーキ 季節の付け合わせ
食事 帆立貝と新生姜の炊き込み御飯 赤出汁 香の物
デザート 本日のデザート
令和七年十一月◯◯日
日本料理 竈神
総料理長 高橋 誠