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新解釈 もろこ寿司 茶巾状の薄焼き卵の上に、酢飯、もろこの頭、骨の素揚げ
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穴子のとも和え 穴子とのれそれ
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優美で細やかな包丁が入った 烏賊 下は烏賊塩
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皮目がパリパリと焼かれたメバチマグロ 包丁の入り方も素晴らしい!
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宮津湾の海水 まずは、これをそのまま飲みます。
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ドゥラモット ブリュ ブランドゥブラン
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静岡 杉井酒造 杉錦 菩提生酛純米
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高知 アリサワ酒造 文佳人 辛口純米 これを燗で
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椎茸
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包丁が綺麗に入ってます。
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穴子 とも和え
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穴子の酢味噌和え と のれそれ
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お造り 鯛 と 烏賊 手前は 鯛塩 鯛醤油
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どれも綺麗に包丁入ってます。
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田中 65 写楽
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貝の潮汁 蛤 浅利 しじみ 鮑茸
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メバチマグロ
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綺麗に包丁入ってます。
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菜の花
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子持ちもろこ
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新解釈 もろこ寿司
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奈良 久保本家酒造 睡龍
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えごま
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えごま ごぼう きんかん 和え
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カラスミ餅
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宮津湾 海水
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宮津湾 海水 これで蕎麦を食べます。
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銀の鴨 治部煮
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ミシュラン星2つ、2025アジアトップ50レストラン45位
鰹や昆布の出汁に極力頼らず、素材そのものの旨みを最大限活かすという、独自の調理哲学で有名な店である。
カウンター9席 5時30分一斉スタート、2回転
今時の予約困難店を絵に描いた様な超人気店!
凛とした、張りつめた緊張感の中、中村料理長の笑顔と丁寧に説明が雰囲気を和ます。
料理は真に、素材そのものの旨みを霞ませないよう、鰹や昆布の出汁をも敢えて使わず、マニアックなまでに計算された引き算の料理
◯調味料に手間暇
鯛のお造りには、鯛の身をくまなく使い、海水や醤油に浸して熟成させた鯛塩、鯛醤油が使われる。
烏賊塩は、何と烏賊を海水に浸け、干したものを粉末にしたものとか?
この様に、調味料ひとつにも手間暇かけて、素材との融合を試みている。
◯海水への拘り
海水にも拘りがあり、天橋立のある宮津湾の海水を取り寄せている。
この湾は、海中からも湧き水があふれ、ミネラルが豊富だとか。
あらゆる調味料や潮汁に使われているようである。
そのまま海水を飲んだり、
手打ちの十割蕎麦を、この海水だけでいただくのには驚いた。
個人的には、山葵ぐらいつけたかったな?
◯包丁の入れ方が素晴らしい!
椎茸や、お造りの烏賊に入れられた、包丁の優美で細やかなこと。
舌先に素材の旨みがより伝わり易くなる感覚を覚える。
詳細は写真にて。
◯皮目の火入れが素晴らしい
皮目を美味しくいただくために、敢えて、マグロはメバチマグロに、このカリカリ感と隠し包丁によるネットリ感がなんとも言えない。
◯もろこ寿司 新解釈
絹の様に薄い茶巾状の薄焼き玉子に、酢飯、その上に、もろこの頭と骨の素揚げが乗る。
と、目の前で、子持ちもろこを炭火でこんがりと。
これを乗せて、薄焼きの生地で巻いて食する、もろこ寿司の新解釈!
素揚げされた、もろこの骨と、炭火で、ふっくらと焼かれた子持ちの身、酢飯、玉子の生地、食感の変化の妙と魚卵と身と酢飯の相性を味わう。
日本酒が進む!
◯炊き上がりのご飯が、素晴らしい
まー、ここまでくれば当たり前であるが、土鍋で、炊き上がりのご飯は白眉! ネットリ、もっちり、
糠漬け、赤身、白魚、しぐれ煮、赤だし
でいただくが、日本人に生まれたことを感謝したい逸品であった。
帰りに、お土産に、塩むすびにしていただいた。
翌朝、チンして食するも、これも上々の出来!
斯様に、カウンター越しに、パフォーマンスが続く
料理とお酒と会話を楽しみというよりは、
料理ショーに魅入って、会話を忘れると言う、異様な感覚に見舞われる。
出汁を使う、使わない、どちらが美味いか?
賛否両論あるかと思われるが、
料理に、この様なアプローチもあると言うこと知った。
既成概念に囚われた味覚がデトックスされた気分!
以前通い込んでいたお店のソムリエと、出会えたというサプライズもあり、貴重な1日となった。
ご馳走様でした。