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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
オーナーソムリエ・中村豪志氏。
ミシュラン・ソムリエアワード2026受賞
ゲストの好みを読み、ペアリングやストーリー展開により、顧客に豊かな食体験を提供する姿勢が受賞理由と言う。
思い出すのは、四十余年前。
六本木「オー・シザーブル」での山田恵氏の所作。
立ち居振る舞い、的確なサジェスチョン、そして唯ならぬオーラ。
SNSも存在しない時代、伝説のメートルとして記憶に刻んだ。
中村氏がその薫陶を、代官山「ラブレー」で受けたと聞けば、この凜とした空気感も腑に落ちる。
マノワの第一印象は、時代を経てもなお、日本のフレンチに息づく“おもてなしの系譜”が連綿と続いていることへの微笑ましさであった。
料理はそのサービスに見合う、確かな火入れと出汁の効かせ方。
塩の塩梅にも緻密な意志を感じる。
盛りつけは繊細で今の感覚、味は古典に裏付けられた深み。
初手のアミューズから既に“仕事”が見える。
◯イカ墨のチップに甘海老とインカのめざめのメリメロ、
◯ダコワーズに白レバー、
◯イクラとサワークリームのパイ。
それぞれ高さの異なる器で供され、視覚と食感のリズムを奏でる。
◯キャビアは店オリジナルの瓶に。
蓋を開けると、一面をキャビア。北海道アンジュ・ド・フロマージュを下に潜ませ豊穣な塩味を支える。
◯翡翠ミカンと黒文字の花をあしらったバターナッツのムースの軽やかさ。
◯秋刀魚と緑茄子のテリーヌには肝のソースが香り、
◯炙り墨イカと加賀蓮根はロックフォールで小粋にまとめる。
いずれも、メインに至る前の“前奏曲”とは思えぬ完成度。
メインは、◯マナガツオと◯蝦夷鹿。
特に鹿肉は見事。
自ら狩猟も嗜む氏だけに、目利きと火入れの妙が冴える。
厚切りで供される身には鉄分の香が立ち、噛み締める楽しみを味わう。芯玉の部位は脂の芳香が柔らかく残る。
発酵プラムの酸味が全体をまとめ上げる。
そして、特筆すべきはパン。
キューブ状に焼かれたブリオッシュは、面の多さゆえの香ばしさと柔らかさの対比が見事。
さらに、熱々の石焼器で供されるカンパーニュは、食感の振幅が圧倒的。
ワインは中村氏に一任するも、私のいつもの流儀を尊重していただき、単なるペアリングではなしに、
同時にグラスを並べることとしよう。
シャンパン
●ヴァルニエ・ファニエール エスプリ デ クレ
白
●ピュリニー・モンラッシェ ガローデ ペール エ フィス
●ポール ブロケール リースニング
赤
●シャンボール・ミュジニー ブシャール ペール エ フィス
●サンジュ ド グリュオ ラローズ
フロマージュはサントモール・ド・トゥレーヌ、ロックフォール、エポワス。
デセールはシャインマスカットのグラニテ、黒無花果とココナッツのムース、そしてバナナショコラ。
構成、テンポ、香りの移ろい、すべてが美しい。
サービスと料理が、互いに敬意を払い合う舞台。
ここに、四十年前の記憶と、今この時代の息吹が交錯した。
マノワは、フレンチが単なる料理ではなく、物語として存在することを教えてくれる場所。
ご馳走様でした。