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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
銀座の近藤。
天ぷら界のカリスマが、今なお油の前に立ち続ける老舗中の老舗である。
この夜は幸運にも、親方の正面。
油の温度、粉のまとい方、箸先の角度、すべてが一望できる特等席。
天ぷらとは、衣を纏わせる料理ではなく、「脱水、蒸し」の技術である。
そんな話を、知識としては聞き齧ってきたが、
この日ほど、それを“目で理解させられた”体験はなかった。
粉を打ち、
シャバシャバの衣に、ごく軽く潜らせ、
惜しげもなく交換される超高級・大白胡麻油の海へ。
音が違う。
泡立ちが違う。
そして、引き上げの一瞬に宿る、確信めいた迷いのなさ。
普段は少食の身。
親方お任せを頼み、しかも野菜中心と聞いて、
量を食べ切れるか？ 正直、わずかな不安もあった。
が、それはまったくの杞憂であった。
揚げたそばから、身体にすっと入っていく。
油を食べている感覚はなく、
むしろ、素材が 軽くなって 口に届くような錯覚すら覚える。
そして不思議なことに、
天ぷらだけをこれだけいただいたにもかかわらず、
胃にもたれないどころか、心地よい食後感！
親方お任せ
・車海老
・アスパラ
・キス
・椎茸
・馬面ハギ
・京レンコン
・栗
・江戸前ハゼ
・そら豆
・白魚とミョウガ
・ニンジン
・さつまいも
・締めに天茶
野菜揚げの達人とは聞いていたが、
実際に体験すると、その表現では追いつかない。
特に
●ニンジンのかき揚げ
●京レンコン
●さつまいも
甘味が 増幅 されている。
いや、正確には、余分な水分だけが削ぎ落とされ、
蒸しあげられ、本来そこにあった甘味と香りが、密度を増して現れる。
魚では、
●江戸前ハゼ
●白魚
箸を入れた時に、ほんのりと立ち昇る、馨を纏った水蒸気
これまでに食べてきた天ぷらと、
素材の旨味・甘味の凝縮度が、明らかに別次元。
揚げ物というより、素材の本質を蒸留した一品と言った方がしっくりくる。
酒は、ビールと日本酒
ラインナップは、決して今風に豊富とは言えない。
冷やと燗を交互にいただくとしょう。
だが、ここで求めるのは選択肢ではない。
「さあ、これを食ってみろ」
そう言わんばかりの、圧倒的なオーラ。
酒は脇役、いや、必要最低限の伴奏に過ぎない。
そのオーラと、
それを裏切らない技術と実力に、
ただただ身を委ね、圧倒され、そして深く満たされた。
天ぷらとは何か。
その問いに、言葉ではなく、体感で答えを示す店。
銀座・近藤。
やはり、別格であった。
ご馳走様でした。