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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
九州出張の合間を縫って、ようやく悲願の「山ろく」さんを訪問できた。平日とはいえ予約なしだったため少し不安もあったが、12時着でちょうど入れ替えのタイミング。ほぼ待ちなしで入店できたのはラッキーだった。
メニューは暗記するほど予習済み。作戦も立てたうえで、注文は以下の通り。
皮タレ焼き 995円
山ろく塩焼き 1,672円
レバー焼き 758円
焼き野菜盛り合わせ 594円
白ご飯（小） 332円
出汁香る味噌汁 330円
特選生卵・太陽卵 270円
薬味（赤柚子胡椒） 110円
まずは皮タレ焼きを網に乗せてスタート。脂を落としながら、じっくりと焼き上げる。グニッと、コリッとした噛みごたえのある素晴らしい食感に、凝縮された脂の旨み。これはもはや主役を張れるポテンシャルだ。薬味で頼んだ香りの強い赤柚子胡椒との相性も抜群。皮は半分ほど網に残し、さらに脂を落としてカリカリになるまでキープする。
続いてレバー。これほど大ぶりで、なおかつ色味の美しい鶏レバーは初めてだ。焼きすぎず、炙るように火を入れて口へ運ぶと、トロける食感とともに濃厚な旨みが口いっぱいに広がる。まるでフォアグラのような贅沢さ。なんという完成度のレバー焼きだろう。
そして看板メニューの「山ろく塩焼き」。部位はモモとムネだ。焼く前から確実に美味しさが伝わる、その見た目の美しさにまず心を掴まれる。火入れに悩んだが、それぞれ2枚ずつあるので、1枚目はレア気味に、もう1枚はしっかりと火を入れて試すことにした。
まず驚かされたのはモモの肉質。焼き上がりにハサミを入れても、切るのに苦労するほどの弾力がある。噛むと、その歯応えと力強さに思わず唸る。固いのではない。筋肉の繊維が生きている感覚だ。噛むほどに肉の旨みが溢れ出す。一方のムネは、上品な出汁を思わせる水分をたっぷりと含み、モモの脂とは異なるジューシーさを持つ。ムネは断然、レア気味が最高だった。
そして今回、どうしてもやってみたかったのがセルフ親子丼。鍋を持ち込んで本気の親子丼を作る猛者もいるそうだが、自分は卵かけご飯に皮、モモ、ムネをのせる即席スタイルで。太陽の名を冠する太陽卵を、ご飯の上で崩し、肉に絡めながら頬張る。思うがままに味わう、究極にして悶絶級の親子丼だ。
つい今朝まで生きていた鶏の命をいただき、それを炭で焼いて食べる。その究極的なシンプルさの中に、「食べる」という行為の美しさが確かに宿っていた。