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吉祥寺に誕生した「鮨ト酒肴 富かわ」さん。ご縁があり、こちらのお店に足を運びました。本格的な鮨を肩肘張らずに楽しめるという新しいスタイルの鮨屋。あの「鮨富かわ」さんの2号店として2024年7月にオープンし、予約困難店としてすでに話題を集めている。大将の大村亮太氏は、ミシュラン連続受賞の伝説的料理人に育てられた実力派であり、数々の飲食業界での成功を収めてきたプロデューサー田伏要氏との最強タッグによって、吉祥寺の美食シーンに新風を吹き込んでいる。
この日は、前職の後輩のパートナーさんとご縁あって、不思議な組み合わせで訪問。人のつながりに導かれて辿り着いた鮨屋で、どんな時間が待っているのか、席についた瞬間から心が躍った。
カウンターに座ると、まずは名物の「富かわハイボール」。漬け込んだ焼きリンゴの香りが広がるオリジナルハイボールで、果実の甘やかさと炭酸の爽快さが絶妙に重なり、最初の一口から心を掴まれる。グラスには潰すための専用の少し炭酸水が入ったグラスが用意され、オリジナルハイボールが薄まらないようにされた仕掛けに当たりの店だと確信せた。
「それでは、これから進めていきます。」の号令とともにコースが始まる。見たことのない口休めのガリにまず驚き、そこから物語が幕を開ける。先付は真蛸、ゴーヤ、セロリの和物。さらに枝豆のすり流しに車海老を合わせた椀物が喉を潤す。あん肝をフランスパンに乗せた、ほんのり甘めの「あんぱん」は鮨屋の枠を超えた一皿だ。
鹿児島のあおりいかは細かく叩かれ、シャリと一体となってほどける。イワシの炙り、千葉の太刀魚、異なる部位を使った二枚重ねのマグロ、香ばしく仕上げられたカツオ。魚の力を引き出しつつ、大将の遊び心も感じられる。
スペシャリテは圧巻だ。フランス料理ラッシーニをオマージュした一皿は、フォアグラ、トロにトリュフを彩り、金粉を添えることで鮨に新しい表情を与える。さらにスペイン料理ガスパチョを再構築し、京都の鱧を合わせた一品は、洋と和の境界を飛び越える。桜チップの香りが漂う「玉手箱」から登場する一品は、視覚と嗅覚まで巻き込む仕掛けだ。
続いて、脂ののったくろむつ(8キロサイズ)、高知の鯵、信州の水茄子の巻物は、生ハムをあしらった一品。さわらの燻製、愛知のいしきうなぎの巻物。うなぎは香ばしくパリパリの皮とタレで、身はほろりと崩れる。ほっき貝の歯ごたえ、大トロの手巻き寿司に山牛蒡が効いた一本。締めに「いなり寿司?!」が登場し、コースが完成したことを実感させる。
コースの終盤に供される「あさり出汁のエスプレッソ」は、身体の奥まで染み入る旨味。甘味はセミフレッド、スプラウト、オランダ産茄子のアイス。最後まで意外性と余韻を残す構成に引き込まれる。
お酒は「富かわハイボール」をはじめ、山崎や響のハイボールも揃い、鮨との相性も抜群。特に漬け込んだ焼きリンゴの風味を纏った富かわハイボールは、ここでしか味わえない一杯。
まるで舞台を観ているかのように、一皿ごとに仕掛けと驚きが連続する時間。格式ある鮨の世界を尊重しながらも、新しい風を吹き込む。その世界観はポエティックでありながら、どこか肩の力が抜けていて、心地よい。
吉祥寺に誕生した「鮨ト酒肴 富かわ」さんは、ただ鮨を食べに行く場所ではなく、物語を味わう空間。予約が困難になるのも納得の、特別な時間を過ごせる鮨屋だと思う。
――そして、三國至福の時間が訪れる。
一口の鮨に季節の香りを映し、一杯の酒に大地の記憶を宿す。
語らずとも伝わる旨味に身を委ね、時を忘れ、心をほどく。
吉祥寺の夜にひらく、このひとときはまさに至福。
三國朝陽 拝
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