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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
ぼっち飯探検隊の三國朝陽です。
恵比寿の通りは夜の気配を濃くし、その静けさの奥に、ぽつりと温度をともすように「鮨 喜一」さんは佇んでいた。
ご縁があり、こちらのお店に足を運んだ。
私は、この年末師走に最高なお店に出会ってしまったようです☺️
暖簾をくぐると、総桧ならではの柔らかい香りがふわりと広がり、
外のざわつきがすっと引いていく。最初に出迎えてくれた女性スタッフの方は、穏やかで落ち着いた雰囲気を纏っていて、大将の奥様なのかどうかはこの時点では分からない。
でも、視線の配り方や振る舞いの柔らかさを見ていると、この店をずっと支えてきた時間が、そのまま佇まいに染み込んでいるように思えた。
“長年連れ添ってきた人”にしか出せない空気が、自然とそこにあった。
カウンターの内側に立つ大将は、ゆったりした動きの奥に、どこかスポーツ選手のような芯の強さを感じさせる人だった。
聞けば、大将は野球経験者。
ピッチャーとして長くボールを握ってきた人に特有の、重心の低い構え方や、手首の柔らかい使い方が仕込みの所作ににじんでいる。
その姿を見ていて、ふと自分の過去が重なった。
自分も昔、寿司屋でアルバイトをしていて、一通りの仕事をやっていた。シャリを切る感触、包丁の重み、店の空気を読む緊張感。
懐かしさが胸の奥で静かに揺れて、“ああ、この空気を自分は知っている”と、ほんの少しだけ身が引き締まる。
席に通され、呼吸が落ち着いたころ、冬を象徴する三種類のしゃぶがゆっくりと始まった。
香箱蟹。活車海老。フカヒレ。そしてそれぞれの上に、大将が迷いなく添える馬糞雲丹。
しゃぶしゃぶした瞬間の火の入り方、表面の艶の変化、湯気に溶ける香りのタイミング。どれもが計算というより“身体で覚えたリズム”で進んでいく。
鯛出汁に沈められた香箱蟹は、湯の中で色を帯びながらゆっくり息を吹き返すようで、そこに雲丹をのせて口へ運べば、蟹の甘み、雲丹の濃厚なコク、出汁のやわらかい塩味が、ひとつの景色になるように溶け合っていく。
活車海老は、しゃぶしゃぶした瞬間に身がきゅっと締まり、透明な甘みが舌の上にすっと流れ込む。
そこに雲丹が乗ると、海老の軽やかさと雲丹の重厚な香りが静かに絡まり、まるで波と潮風がゆっくり交わるみたいな余韻が残る。
フカヒレは、箸でつまむだけで形が変わりそうなくらい柔らかくて、口に含むと音も立てずにほどけていく。“消える”というより“沈んでいく”という感覚のほうが近かった。
握りでは、大将の野球経験がふと分かる。ネタを握る手の力加減、包むような所作、投球の指先の感覚に近いのかもしれない。大間と戸井の本鮪、小肌、赤貝、穴子、どれもストレートでも変化球でもなく、“その日の正解”だけが目の前に置かれていくような安定感がある。
大間の鮪は、スルメイカの肝を多く食べるとさらに旨くなるらしい。という、トリビアを教えていただいた。
しかし今日が特別だった理由は、料理だけではない。
《つづく》
Instagram ▶︎ https://www.instagram.com/asahi.mikuni?igsh=MTZka3I4bHZrd3VjMA%3D%3D&utm_source=qr
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#鮨 #寿司 #恵比寿 #sushi #喜一