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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
渋谷・並木橋の落ち着いた一角に佇む「鮨 一」。
今回は長野の銘酒〈真澄〉との特別ペアリングコース。（26,000円）
真澄を手がける宮坂醸造の社長も訪れたという話も聞き、自然と期待が高まる。
カウンターは端正でありながらどこか温かみがあり、柔らかな照明に木の香りが心地よい。
イケメンながらお茶目な大将が、絶妙な距離感で場を和ませてくれる。
まずはつまみから。
茶碗蒸しにはたらば蟹。
滑らかな舌触りの中に蟹の甘みが溶け込み、ペアリングの真澄がすっと後を引く。
帆立と白魚はいり酒と紫蘇の花で香りづけされ、淡い旨味の重なりが美しい。
鰆は醤油ベースのタレにくぐらせてから香ばしく焼き上げられ、ふわりとした身に紅こけし大根の漬物が彩りを添える。
助子（すけそうだらの卵）は生姜の効いた出汁と醤油でまとめられ、滋味深い味わい。
秋刀魚は皮目を軽く炙り、酒盗と茗荷を合わせたたたきに仕上げてあり、濃厚さと香りのバランスが見事だった。
ここから握り。
愛媛の赤酢を使ったシャリに、やや甘めの醤油を合わせる。
最初の一貫、すみイカは塩と酢橘でシンプルに。
厚みのある身がサクッと切れ、歯ごたえと清涼感が同居する。
スズキは肉厚でモチモチとした食感。
中トロはまさにとろける口溶けで、酢飯との一体感が素晴らしい。
小肌は浅めの締めで酢の角がなく、柑橘の香りと旨味のバランスが完璧だった。
そして白茄子の握り。
マグロ節をのせ、とろけるような食感。
野菜の握りながら鮨として完成されている。
ここで一品。
オオモンハタの揚げ物に白舞茸の餡をかけた料理が登場。
魚の旨味と茸の香り、出汁のとろみが三位一体となる。
続く鮑の肝ソース和えは圧巻。
醤油・味醂・肝等で作るという濃厚なソースが、まるで乳製品を使ったようにクリーミーで深い。
リピーターが惚れ込むというのも納得。
さらに、そのソースにシャリを加えてリゾット風に仕立てる演出がまた粋。
鮑の旨味が染み渡り、酒が思わず進む。
後半の握りも充実。
甘海老は三尾を叩き、ねっとりとした舌触りと濃厚な甘み。
ぷつりとした食感こそないが、甘味を極限まで引き出した形。
そしてこの日一番の感動、大トロの「はがし」。
大将が切りながら脂の状態を確かめ、「これははがしでいこう」と即座に判断。
目の前で丁寧に剥がし、ふわりとシャリにのせて差し出す。
脂のきめ細かさと旨味の広がりが圧倒的で、まさに職人の瞬間の判断が生んだ一貫だった。
続いて馬糞雲丹の握り。
濃厚で海の香りが強く、シャリの酸味が優しく包む。
トロの手巻きは海苔の香ばしさが際立ち、巻いた瞬間のパリッと感が最高。
赤出汁は八海山の酒粕入りで、まろやかかつ香り高い。
玉子はプリンのような仕上がりで、食後の余韻を締めくくるにふさわしい。
デザートは梨の白ワイン煮。
金箔を添えた華やかな一皿ながら甘さは控えめで、最後まで上品な印象を残した。
真澄とのペアリングは、料理の香りや質感に合わせて緻密に構成されており、それぞれの酒が料理の輪郭をやわらかく照らし出すよう。
最後には真澄オリジナルのおちょこをお土産に持たせてくれた。
軽快でユーモアあふれる大将の人柄も相まって、格式を感じながらも自然体で楽しめる稀有な鮨屋だった。