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「焼鳥なんてどこで食べても同じ」――そう思っているなら、この店でその概念は覆される。
三ノ宮での用事が夕方に終わり、せっかくなので美味しい夕飯をと飛び込み予約を試みた。オープン直後なら席があるとのことで、幸運にも訪問できた。店内は落ち着いた雰囲気で清潔感もあり、キャバクラ同伴らしきお客さんも見かけたが、スタッフは全員丁寧で気持ちの良い接客。
まず運ばれてきたのは『鶏がらと蛤のスープ』。一口飲んだ瞬間、鶏の香ばしさがふわりと広がり、その後に蛤の優しい旨味がじんわりと追いかけてくる。繊細でいて奥深い、まさに「始まりにふさわしい一杯」。
続く『ささみと葱』は、さっぱりとした味わいで、スープの余韻を爽やかにリセット。
お通しのような一品だが、丁寧に仕上げられている。
次は『高原比内地鶏のむね肉のたたき』。パリパリに焼かれた皮と、しっとりしたむね肉が織りなす絶妙なコントラスト。この火入れの絶妙さは、もはや芸術。
さらに『高原比内地鶏のもも肉のたたき』。ぷりぷりとした肉質に、噛むたびに広がる鶏の旨味。辛めの赤柚子胡椒を少しずつつけると、風味が劇的に変わり、味のアクセントとして秀逸。
『むね肉の塩漬けと蛤のタルタルのブルスケッタ』は、意表を突くイタリアンテイスト。蛤の旨味がむね肉に溶け込み、ワインが欲しくなる大人の味わい。
『むね肉の昆布締めの黄身和え 酢飯丼』は、黄身がまろやかさをもたらし、赤酢のシャープな酸味が全体を引き締める。個人的には白酢で昆布の香りをもっと感じたかったが、十分美味しい。
衝撃的だったのは『肝の炊き』。滑らかでクリーミーな食感は、もはや高級フォアグラ。日本酒の甘みと肝の旨味が見事に調和しており、これは“鶏肝料理の究極形”と言っても過言ではないと感じた。
『穴子と胡瓜の酢の物』は、サッパリとしつつも香ばしく焼かれた穴子が存在感を放つ。箸休めながらもこの満足感は嬉しい。
『だきみ』はNSファームの黒王むね肉に比内地鶏の皮を巻いた贅沢な一本。皮のパリパリ感とジューシーなむね肉の対比が見事。
『こころ』は焼き過ぎずレアすぎない完璧な焼き加減で、噛むたびにジュワッと溢れる旨味に笑みがこぼれる。
『つくね』は“旨味の塊”。ジューシーでふんわりとした食感に、鶏らしい力強い風味が重なる。
『厚揚げ豆腐』は、湊川の原商店から仕入れたものを香ばしく焼き上げ、大豆の香りが口いっぱいに広がる逸品。焼き加減も相まってか、自分にとって人生一の厚揚げ豆腐料理となった。
『うずら』は味玉風の濃厚な味わいで、串の中でシンプルながら印象的。
『姫路蓮根の味噌バター』はザクザクの食感と、濃厚な味噌バターの風味がたまらない。
『ねぎま』は王道でありながら、素材と焼き加減が完璧。シンプルだからこそ技術が際立つ。
『茄子』はジューシーで、鶏油で焼き上げられた香ばしさがたまらない。
『手羽』は骨が抜かれて食べやすく、脂がしっかり乗っているが軽やかでパクパク食べられる。
『せせりのおろし和え』は、肉の旨味と大根おろしの爽やかさが絶妙。最後の一品にふさわしい爽快感。
追加で『ぼんじり』と『肝』を注文。どちらも香ばしく、追加で頼んでも後悔しない美味しさ。
締めの『焼きおにぎりとお味噌汁』は、香ばしく焼き上げられたおにぎりが、鶏の余韻を引き継ぐように美味。
焼鳥屋といえばシンプルなイメージを抱くかもしれない。しかしここは違う。繊細でありながら力強い、和と洋が交差する創作性。一本一本に宿る職人の技術。どの料理も、ひとつとして手を抜かず、その一口ごとに驚きと感動がある。
ここを知らずして焼鳥を語るなかれ。確実に全国トップクラスの焼鳥屋だ。
必ずまた訪れたい。
美味しかったです、ご馳走様でした。
Yakitori That Redefines the Category
“If yakitori tastes the same no matter where you eat it?”
If that’s what you think, this place will completely change your mind.
My errands in Sannomiya wrapped up in the early evening, so I decided to look for a good dinner and tried my luck with a walk-in. I was told that if I came right after opening, there might be a seat—and thankfully, there was. The restaurant had a calm, immaculate atmosphere. Even guests who looked like they’d come straight from cabaret clubs were dining together, yet the staff’s consistently gracious service made the space feel welcoming and refined.
The meal opened with a chicken bone and clam soup. One sip, and a gentle aroma of roasted chicken spread across the palate, followed by the soft, lingering umami of clams. Delicate yet profound—an ideal beginning.
Next came chicken tenderloin with green onions, light and refreshing, resetting the palate beautifully after the soup. It functions like an amuse-bouche, but it’s thoughtfully prepared and never feels incidental.
The seared breast of Kogen Hinai chicken followed. Crisp skin giving way to moist, tender meat—this contrast alone spoke volumes about the chef’s precision. It was nothing short of masterful.
Then the seared thigh of the same Hinai chicken: springy, juicy, and deeply flavorful, growing richer with each bite. A touch of spicy red yuzu kosho transformed it instantly, adding a sharp, vivid accent.
The bruschetta topped with salt-cured breast meat and clam tartare was a delightful surprise—an Italian-inspired dish where the clam’s umami melted seamlessly into the chicken. Sophisticated and clearly designed with wine in mind.
The kombu-cured breast with egg yolk over vinegared rice was luxuriously smooth from the yolk, while the red vinegar’s acidity tightened the flavors. Personally, I would’ve loved to experience more kombu aroma with white vinegar, but even so, it was excellent.
The biggest shock of the night was the simmered chicken liver. Its texture rivaled high-end foie gras—silky, rich, and refined. The balance between the liver’s depth and the gentle sweetness of sake was flawless. Calling this the ultimate expression of chicken liver doesn’t feel like an exaggeration.
The vinegared anago and cucumber refreshed the palate, yet the lightly grilled eel asserted itself with a subtle smokiness, offering real satisfaction even as a cleanser.
The dakimi—Hinai chicken skin wrapped around NS Farm’s Black King breast—was pure indulgence. Crisp skin and juicy meat formed a perfect contrast.
The heart was grilled to absolute precision: neither overdone nor undercooked. Each bite released a burst of savory juice that naturally brought a smile.
The tsukune was umami given form—juicy, fluffy, and unapologetically chicken-forward.
The thick fried tofu from Harashoten in Minatogawa was grilled until aromatic, filling the mouth with the fragrance of soybeans. With its impeccable grilling, it became, without exaggeration, the best agedashi-style tofu I’ve ever had.
The quail eggs, seasoned like marinated eggs, were simple yet rich—quietly memorable.
Himeji lotus root with miso butter delivered a satisfying crunch paired with deep, savory richness. Completely addictive.
The negima was classic and flawless. With dishes this simple, technique is exposed—and here, it shone.
Eggplant grilled in chicken fat was juicy and irresistibly fragrant.
The boneless chicken wings were rich yet surprisingly light, dangerously easy to keep eating.
The seseri (neck meat) with grated daikon struck a perfect balance between deep umami and refreshing sharpness—an ideal way to close the savory course.
I added bonjiri and liver at the end, and both were so well executed that ordering extra felt like the only logical choice.
To finish, a grilled rice ball with miso soup arrived. The toasty aroma carried forward the lingering memory of chicken, bringing the meal to a deeply satisfying close.
Yakitori is often thought of as something simple. This place is different—delicate yet powerful, rooted in Japanese tradition while confidently embracing creative, even Western, ideas. Every skewer reflects the chef’s skill, and not a single dish feels careless. Each bite offers surprise and genuine delight.
To talk about yakitori without knowing this place would be a mistake. It is unquestionably among the very best yakitori restaurants in the country.
I will absolutely be back.
Thank you for an unforgettable meal.