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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
『天ぷら 北川』
東京/ 恵比寿
○————————————○
: 東京都渋谷区恵比寿南1-17-15 VORT恵比寿Ⅵ
○————————————○
＊雰囲気
恵比寿の隠れ家的なビルの上階。扉を開けると、そこには洗練された白木のカウンターが広がる、凛とした「静」の空間が。
大将の誠実な仕事ぶりを間近で見ながら、一献傾ける。まさに大人が行き着く、現代の天ぷらです。
名店『成生』のDNAを継承していると言っても過言ではないミシュランの星を獲得した北川氏。
＊こんな人におすすめ
・「素材の背景」を楽しみながら、じっくりと食に向き合いたい人
・蒸し焼きのような高度な揚げ技を堪能したい人
・恵比寿で、大切な人を驚かせるセンスの良いお店を探している人
＊料理
一口ごとに「なぜこんなに美味しいのか」の答えがある、緻密な構成。
• ごぼう：1年以上寝かせることで糖度を高め、驚くほどホクホクに。この店の「顔」とも言える逸品。
• アジ：駿河湾で桜エビを食べて育ったアジ。身に宿るほのかな甘みと香りは、天ぷらにして初めて開花します。
• 金目鯛の鱗揚げ：パリッパリの鱗の食感と、煮付け風のソース。伝統と革新の融合に痺れます。
• さわら：水分量が多い魚だからこそ、あえて早めに揚げる。レアな質感が残る身は、驚くほどジューシー！
• 赤茄子：油を吸わせない特別な技法で、茄子本来の瑞々しさが爆発します。
・海老：海老のすべてを味わい尽くす。部位ごとに異なる甘みのグラデーション。
• ぎんなん：弾ける食感。秋の香りが鼻を抜ける、シンプルゆえに技術が問われる一粒。
• 黒ムツ：深い脂のノリを、衣が完璧に閉じ込めたジューシーな一品。
• 煎茶・柿とアイス：最後まで季節と余韻を大切にする、計算し尽くされたデザート。
＊全体を通して
「揚げる」という行為が、いかに素材を「活かす」ことであるかを教えてくれるお店。
海老のしっぽから最後のデザートまで、一切の妥協がありません。
特に、旬の野菜たちが持つ「大地の力」をこれほどまでに引き出せるのは、北川氏の深い知識と愛情があってこそ。
恵比寿に咲いた、天ぷらの新星。
すでにほとんど予約が取れないですが、
ぜひ体験してほしい一軒です。