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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
京都への小旅行で訪れたのは、祇園四条駅から徒歩10分ほど、八坂神社に隣接する円山公園。その一角に佇む洋館「長楽館」は、明治42年（1909年）、“たばこ王”と称された実業家・村井吉兵衛が迎賓館として建てた建物です。初代総理大臣の伊藤博文や大隈重信、実業家の渋澤栄一、元老の山縣有朋、さらには英国の王族までもが利用したという由緒を持ちます。以前は京都市の有形文化財に指定されていましたが、2024年には国の重要文化財に昇格し、その特別さをさらに際立たせています。
現在はホテル・カフェ・レストランを併設する複合施設として蘇り、1階にはフレンチレストラン「ル・シェーヌ（Le Chêne）」、さらに館内にはライブラリーバー「マデイラ」やスイーツブティックも構え、食・文化・歴史を多面的に楽しめる場所として再生されています。
この日利用したのは「ル・シェーヌ」。重厚な洋館の建築と共に味わうフランス料理は、まさに非日常の体験。クラシカルなシャンデリアや大理石の柱、暖炉を備えた食堂の間には、迎賓館としての百余年の空気が今も漂い、歴史と料理が融合する空間でした。
料理を手がけるのはシェフの橋本和樹氏。毎朝3時間かけて鯖街道を経て仕入れに出向き、京都・大原や静原、滋賀の食材を中心に集めています。旬の素材を軸に、クラシックなフレンチの技法に和のエッセンスを加えた料理は、一皿ごとに地域性と季節感を映し出していました。
ドリンクは妊娠中のためシャンパーニュではなく、フランス「アランミリア」の赤と白のグレープジュースを。果実の凝縮感が心地よく、ノンアルコールでありながら華やかさがありました。さらにメインの七谷鴨には、京都の氷で10時間かけて抽出した「一保堂」の極上ほうじ茶を合わせていただき、焙煎香の奥行きが鴨肉の旨味と見事に調和。ワインに匹敵するペアリング体験に感嘆しました。
料理の流れは、まず定番の「キッシュ・ロレーヌ」。玉ねぎの甘みを引き出し、自家製ベーコンとグリュイエールチーズの芳醇な香りを重ねた一皿で、郷土料理らしい安心感が京都の野菜と見事に調和していました。
「伊根のカンパチと冬瓜、生姜」は特に印象深いひと皿。じっくり煮含められた冬瓜の中にカンパチのタルタルが詰められ、噛むと魚の旨みが溶け出します。下には笠原生姜のジュレが敷かれ、全体に清涼感を与えていました。盛り付けは10月6日の中秋の名月をイメージしており、味覚と視覚の双方で物語性を感じさせます。私は妊娠中のため魚を蒸しホタテに差し替えていただきましたが、自然にコースへ溶け込んでいて違和感は一切ありませんでした。
「美山鹿のパート・ブリック包み」は、万願寺唐辛子とピマン・デスペレットを効かせた力強い味わい。鹿肉の凝縮した旨みにスパイスの香りが寄り添い、上にあしらわれたビーツの鮮烈な赤は紅葉を思わせました。
ブールノワゼット・スナケ・・・ サクサクのパン粉にブールノワゼット（焦がしバター）の香りがじゅわっと広がる一皿。深い器が“香りのスピーカー”になって、立ち上るナッティな香りまで味わいに。底にはナスのペースト「キャビア・ド・オーベルジーヌ」、周囲に薄くスライスしたナス。軽やかな食感とバターのコクをナスの滋味が受け止めて、香りごと楽しめました。
オオモンハタと京野菜、万願寺唐辛子・・・ 皮目は香ばしく、身はふっくら。万願寺唐辛子のソースは辛さ控えめで、青唐辛子特有の香りと甘みがハタの繊細さを引き立てます。大原・静原・滋賀から届いた旬野菜（メロンきゅうり、オクラ、万願寺唐辛子など）がそれぞれ違う調理で表情豊かに。仕上げのピマン・デスペレットが爽やかな余韻をまとめました。
お口直し（2種のソルベ）・・・ マデイラワインを使ったソルベと梅のソルベ。中央の梅ソースが酸味をきゅっと引き締めて、次の皿へのスイッチにちょうど良い清涼感。
メインは「七谷鴨」。稲わらで燻した香りと共に登場し、肉質の柔らかさと凝縮した旨味に驚かされます。ロース、もも肉のガレット、砂ずりを盛り合わせることで、一羽の鴨の個性を立体的に表現。付け合わせの大葉リゾット、茗荷の花、枝豆が清涼感を添え、香りと重厚さのバランスが際立っていました。熟成と氷漬けを経た手間が、その一皿に確かに表れていました。
デセールは「清見ワインの酒粕を使ったパンナコッタ」と「ブラムリーズシードリングのコンポート」。酸味と甘みがバランスよく、黒文字の清涼感が全体に奥行きを与えていました。お誕生日仕様のプレートも用意していただき、華やかさと温かさが同居する締めくくりに。最後はシガーボックスを模したケースから茶葉を選ぶ紅茶の演出があり、建物の歴史性とリンクする遊び心が印象的でした。
全体を通して、ル・シェーヌの魅力は「建築と料理の融合」に尽きると思います。百余年の歴史を宿す洋館で、京都の旬の食材を軸にしたクラシックフレンチを味わう体験は、単なる食事を超えて「文化を享受する時間」に昇華していました。記念日という特別な日にふさわしい場であり、家族で安心して過ごせるホスピタリティの高さも含め、忘れがたい一日となりました。