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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
広尾駅4番出口から徒歩約11分のところに「鮓 有無」さんはあった。
コンクリート打ちっぱなしの外壁に、控えめな看板が静かに訪れる人を誘う。無駄を削ぎ落とした美意識が漂う外観は、洗練された空気を纏い、これから始まる特別な時間を静かに予感させる。扉をくぐると、上質な白木で造られたカウンターが目の前に現れ、暖色の間接照明が柔らかく空間を包み込む。わずか8席という限られた席数が、この場所で味わえる特別感をより一層際立たせる。
今回いただいた料理は
♢ディナーお任せコース18時一斉スタート
・マコガレイの刺身
・渡り蟹
・鰆
・鮪
・貝出汁の茶碗蒸し
・アオリイカとカラスミのつまみ
・鯵
・ボタンエビ
・白甘鯛の焼き物
・つぶ貝の刺身
・トキシラズ
・みる貝
・みる貝の肝
・鰹の揚げ物
・中トロ
・トロと芽ねぎ
・べったら漬け
・すっぽんのスープ
・うに
・金目鯛
・鮪の中落ちと海葡萄の巻物
・卵焼き
・あら汁
・ほうじ茶とマンゴープリン
♢ハートランド
♢萬膳（黒麹）
♢グラスワイン白
特に印象に残った料理は
「マコガレイの刺身」。しっとりとした弾力を持つ白身に包丁が繊細に入り、淡い甘みが舌の上でじわりと広がる。その上に添えられた淡路の赤ウニが舌の熱で溶け出し、濃厚な旨味と磯の香りがカレイの儚い味わいをやさしく包み込む。ひんやりとした温度が口内を静かに冷やし、余韻には清らかさが残り心地よい。
「鰆の握り」は、脂が程よくのり、口に入れた瞬間に淡い甘みと旨みがじんわりと広がる。軽く炙った表面の香ばしさが鼻を抜け、シャリの温かさが鰆のしっとりとした身と一体となり、舌の上でほどけるように消えていく。華やかさはなくとも、職人の確かな手仕事が感じられる一貫で、シンプルな中に奥行きを感じた。
「鮪の赤身」は、塩釜で獲れたもの。しっとりとした舌触りで、繊維の奥から溢れる旨みがじわじわと広がる。酸味は控えめで、脂の強さに頼らない赤身ならではの力強い旨味が、温かいシャリと合わさり、口に残る余韻も美しい。
「貝出汁の茶碗蒸し」は、しじみを20kg、蛤を40個、そして？？？（失念）の貝50個を惜しげもなく使い、旨味を抽出した出汁が全て。具材は一切入れず、潔いほどに出汁のみで勝負する姿勢が印象的。口に含むと、濃密な貝のエキスが舌にまとわりつき、ふわりと広がる海の香りが食欲をかき立てる。余計な装飾を削ぎ落とし、出汁そのものの力強さで魅せる見事な一品だった。
「ボタンエビ」は、氷水で3日間寝かせたという手間のかかった逸品。ねっとりとした肉厚な身に噛み込むと、濃厚な甘みが舌の上で溶け出し、シャリとネタの間に挟まれたエビの味噌がさらに旨味を押し上げる。口の中でじわじわと広がるエビの甘みが、贅沢という言葉を自然と引き寄せる。
「白甘鯛の焼き物」は、高温で揚げた大葉がサクサクとした食感を生み、タレの甘辛さが白甘鯛のしっとりとした身の旨さをぐっと引き出す。口に入れるとタレの香りがふわっと立ち上り、鯛の上品な脂と混ざり合い、口いっぱいに心地よい甘辛さが広がる。
「みる貝の握り」は、愛知の本みる貝を使用。しっかりとした歯ごたえが心地よく、じんわりと旨味が滲み出る。鼻を抜ける磯の香りと、後味に残るほのかな甘みが繊細なバランスで、余韻が長く続く。締まりのある身質が、職人の丁寧な仕事ぶりを物語っていた。
「すっぽんのスープ」は、鮑、白子、フカヒレ、ヤングコーンが贅沢に入り、6匹のすっぽんから抽出された出汁は濃密で、舌の上でとろりとした旨味の膜を作るような濃度。鮑はしっかりとした歯ごたえ、白子は舌の上でとろけるような滑らかさ、フカヒレは繊細な繊維の食感で余韻を引き延ばし、ヤングコーンの爽やかな甘みが重厚な旨味の中でアクセントとなっていた。複雑な味わいが層を成し、思わず目を閉じて味わいたくなる一杯だった。
「うに」は馬糞ウニの握りで、これでもかという量のウニがシャリの上に堂々と乗る。とろけるような舌触りで、クリーミーな甘みが一気に口の中に広がり、ふわりと海の香りが鼻を抜けていく。温かいシャリとのコントラストが心地よく、口いっぱいに広がる贅沢な旨味に、しばし無言で向き合ってしまう。大将の豪快さと繊細さが同居した一貫だった。
「金目鯛」は、ひと口噛むと香ばしい炙りの香りが鼻をくすぐり、脂の甘みと旨味が舌全体にじんわりと広がる。柔らかな身が口の中でほろりとほぐれ、まるで上質な牛肉のような濃厚さが舌を包み込む。鼻腔に残る香りも芳醇で、シャリとの一体感が素晴らしく、記憶に深く刻まれる一貫だった。
「卵焼き」は18個もの卵黄を使い、しっとりとした口当たりで、やわらかな甘みがじんわりと広がる。卵黄と白身魚のすり身が加わることで生まれる淡い旨味が、焼き目の香ばしさと重なり、ほのかに香る卵黄の濃厚さが口の中に残る。まるでカステラのようなふうわりとした食感があり、最後の一口まで飽きずに楽しめる仕上がりだった。
接客は大将や板前さんの所作は凛としていて、それでいて柔らかさがあり、会話の中にも優しいユーモアが感じられる。女性スタッフさんもタイミングよく声をかけてくれ、気配りが細やかでとても心地よい時間を過ごせた。
総括として「鮓 有無」は、削ぎ落とされた美意識と職人技が響き合う、唯一無二の寿司体験を提供してくれる場所だ。ひと口ごとに素材の個性と技の妙が重なり合い、奥行きのある味わいが広がる。記憶に深く刻まれる余韻が残り、心から満たされる鮨体験となった。