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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
友人より連絡を頂き、予約困難店のこちらで枠が取れたとの事で、訪問。
こちらはテレビにも出演される大将が切り盛りされていて、日本一身体の大きい職人さんのいう事でも有名な方。
本物の方が大きいです。
そんな大将の身体の大きさとは裏腹な緻密で繊細で仕事をしっかりと味わってきた。
18:00より予約。
早速始まるお任せコース40,000円。
〜握り〜
★紫雲丹
★春子鯛
★すみいか
★赤貝
★赤身
★鰤
★中トロ
★大トロ
★小肌
★車海老
★雲丹軍艦
★穴子
〜料理〜
★鯖燻製
★蛸柔らか煮
★シャコ
★べにずわい蟹
★黒ムツ
★あん肝
★鰯
★土瓶蒸し
★卵
★甘味
〜握り〜
まずはいいものが入り始めたという事で挨拶代わりの紫雲丹。
ふわっと溶けて広がる濃厚な甘み。
シャリと共にホロホロに溶けていく。
春子鯛は、厚みがあるが、良い熟成で崩れていき甘みが出てくる。
すみいかはサクッとした歯切れの良さ。
酢橘香り噛むほどに甘みが出る。
赤貝はコリッとした食感をしっかり楽しめる。
味はさっぱりめだった印象。
赤身は、大間産。
こちらは、ほぼ熟成させていないというが、自然に溶けていく。
赤身ならではの味の濃さを残しつつ、口溶けが良い。
かなりものが良いとの事。
鰤はお腹の部分。
脂乗りがジュワーとやってくる。
歯触りも心地よい。
ここから続くマグロは、噴火湾。
2週間熟成。
味の出方が熟成を感じる。
溶けていく。。
大トロは熱した炭で表面をじゅーっと焼き入れる。
焼いた香ばしさと溢れる脂がたまらない、、、
しっかりとシャリにも移っていく。
小肌は3日寝かしたもの。
柔らかく程よい生感と酸味。
食感含め魅力を引き出している。
そのまま大きさで海老登場。
ブリンブリンです。
口いっぱいに広がる。
ここで最初に出た雲丹を軍艦で。
海苔を合わせることにより全体がまとまるがより雲丹の旨みも感じる気がする。
穴子は厚みがありふわっとしているが形をキープしている。
とろとろしすぎていないところやツメも抑えめで終盤に食べるのなるこのくらいが好みなら気がする。
〜料理〜
炊かれた巨大の蛸の味をカット。
柔らかさの中に蛸の味特有の弾力を感じる。
脂の乗った鯖を塩で軽く〆て藁で燻製する。
生感を残しつつ、しまった身。
口に入れると香る笑の香りから脂が溶け出して鯖の旨みがやってくる。
シャコはプリッとした食感と自然な味わいを楽しめる。
この辺りで既に日本酒欲しくなるが我慢。
北海道のズワイガニ。
身、内子、外子、味噌をこれでもかと甲羅に詰めたもの。
めちゃくちゃ手間暇かかっている。
全体がしっかり馴染んでいる。
とにかく量が多いのでわ口いっぱい食べでなくならない贅沢なアテ。
黒ムツはサッと炙って玉ねぎ醤油で合わせる。
溢れている脂と醤油が合わせるとシャンピオンソースのように甘さとコクが出る。
口の中でよく響く旨み。
炊いたあん肝はふわっととろける。
優しい甘さであん肝のコクを楽しめる。
余韻まで楽しめてお酒が進む。
鰯はシンプルにイワシを感じる。
良い脂乗りで特有の旨さが好き。
酢橘とおろしポン酢でさっぱりな味変も良い。
松茸と鱧と銀杏の入った土瓶蒸し。
夏の終わりと秋の始まりを感じる。
お出汁を楽しみ、具も楽しむ。
秋の日本料理の絶対的な存在にホッとする。
卵焼きはスポンジそのもの。
穴子との相性が良い。
デザートはラムレーズンのアイスとさつま芋の天ぷら。
それぞれも楽しみながら温度と食感の差も楽しめる。
お茶を飲みつつ、コースが終わる。
師匠の教えで、入ってきたものをいかに自分達で仕込むかで仕事が変わる。
身の熟成や醤油や酢。
口に入れた時の口内調理で初めて完成する。
科学的に解説してくださり、納得。
どれが欠けても完成しない。
赤酢のシャリは今は定番になったという事が、昔始めた事は受け入れられずに苦労されたとこの事。
海外のものを入れる事も反対が多かったというが常にいいものや新しいものを作るパイオニアの話も感慨深い。
何年やっても常に探求心を止めずに一本先を進んでいくからこそ、守られる味がある。
またキタイと思いまーす。