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浅草・雷門を抜けて少し歩くと、観光客の喧騒がふっと途切れる瞬間がある。その静けさの先にあるのが「寿司 えどまる」。名前の通り、江戸前の仕事にこだわる寿司屋だが、肩の力を抜いて楽しめる空気がある。暖簾をくぐると、木の香りがほのかに漂い、職人の包丁の音が響く。そのリズムがもう、心を整えてくれる。
ここでは“江戸前”という言葉が、形式ではなく“呼吸”のように感じられる。シャリはほどよく人肌で、噛むたびに米粒がふわりとほどけ、酢の酸味が魚の旨みを優しく引き立てる。特に中トロは、脂が甘く、口に含むと静かに溶けていくよう。光り物の締め方も見事で、塩と酢の余韻がまるで小さな物語のように残る。
派手な演出もなく、ただ淡々と、真面目に美味しい寿司を出す。それなのに心を打つのは、職人の「この一貫に全てを込める」という覚悟が、握る姿から滲み出ているからだろう。観光地・浅草で、こんなに“凛とした”寿司に出会えるとは思わなかった。
江戸の粋を今に残す、まさに“えどまる”という名にふさわしい一軒だ。