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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
Tabelog 4.55 ｜ Google 4.7
三年連続ゴールド受賞、富山総合評価No.1
太刀魚の切り身は角ばって整い、降り注ぐ陽光に銀鱗がまだ残っているかのよう。魚自体の品質も良く、口当たりが良い。立山黒部の渓谷を泳ぎ抜いてきたかのような、食卓に届く一瞬の甘みだ。薄切りの月牙状の熊の腿肉は、野趣あふれるギビエ・ミヤマのような野生の味わいには及ばず、熊の脂が長年染み込み、油脂が筋肉の繊維にまで絡み合うような絶妙さは感じられなかった。おそらく調味がバランスと繊細さを追求しすぎて、野性味が足りないため、風味が少し物足りない。
一方、看板料理の鶏料理は山野の清らかな気配をまとっている。どぶろくに一晩漬け込んでから風乾し、中には熊の心臓、手掌、脂肪、内臓が詰められている。肉質は少年の筋肉のように引き締まっているのに、ほぐれると絶妙なうまみが広がる。爪先まで見ていると、この鶏が生前歩んだ山道のすべてが、舌先で溶け出すように感じられる。
店の香箱蟹は、近来食べた中で最も控えめな味わいだったが、羊脂玉のような上品な鮮味が眉を上げるほどで、コシヒカリの米漿もほんのり濃厚さを添えている。素麺も美味であり、スープは山羊のチーズと鶏の澄まし汁を調和させたもの。山渓の清らかな冷たさと竈の火の温かさが同時に喉を駆け抜ける。能楽の一幕のように、上品で、琥珀の液体から差す幾筋かの金色の光のようだ。穴子の身は、まるで愛する人の手のひらのように柔らかく感じられる。
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