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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
人生初のミシュラン二つ星体験は、富山県利賀村の「L’évo（レヴォ）」。
予約段階から背筋が伸びるような緊張感があったが、実際に訪れてみると、それ以上に得られるものの深さに圧倒された。
このレストランが掲げる「究極の地産地消」というコンセプトに強く惹かれ、山深い地に足を運んだ。
期待以上だったのは、“富山を五感で味わう”という表現が誇張でないどころか、むしろ控えめにすら感じられた点だ。
供されるのは、土地の自然と密接に結びついた全12皿のコース。
Prologueに始まり、カワハギ、鯵、水蛸、月ノ輪熊、蛍烏賊、大門素麺、L’évo鶏、桜鱒、猪、よつぼし苺、黒文字まで、構成は緻密でありながら、どの皿も「ここでしか食べられない」力強さがある。
特に印象に残ったのは、月ノ輪熊と猪。ジビエという枠を超えて、動物と森の命の循環を料理として昇華させたような感覚だった。火入れ、香り、付け合わせに至るまで、すべてに思想が宿る。
蛍烏賊や大門素麺といった地元の食材も、ただ使うのではなく、料理人のフィルターを通して再構築されているのが見事だった。
空間の設計も素晴らしく、窓の外に広がる森の景色と料理が呼応するような感覚すらある。
加えて、ワインセラーや熟成庫、そして今朝狩ってきたという小熊の血抜き場まで案内していただき、厨房の背後にある“命との向き合い方”に触れられたのも、非常に貴重な経験だった。
今回はノンアルコールペアリングを選択したが、飲み物とのバランスや温度設定など、随所に緻密な計算が感じられた。次回はぜひアルコールとのペアリングを体験してみたい。
L’évoは単なるレストランではない。富山の大地と共に生きる人々の知恵と感性、その哲学までもが一皿一皿に映し出された、“文化としての料理”に触れられる場所だと感じた。