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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
金沢・橋場町の路地裏にひっそりと佇む、天ぷら懐石の名店「天金」。
この日は「桔梗」のコースをいただいた。
能登をはじめとする北陸の旬食材を、香りや音とともに五感で味わえるように調理された一皿一皿。
繊細さと余韻をまとった料理に、ゆっくりと心がほどけていく。
特に印象的だったのは蕗の薹の天ぷら。
揚げたての香ばしい香りに続き、咀嚼のたびに広がる華やかな苦みと風味。
“春の野をそのまま食べるような”体験に近く、食材の芯を引き出す火入れの技に脱帽した。
店主・山口崇司さんは、東京・麻布十番「天冨良よこ田」での修行を経て独立。
高級店の流儀に倣いつつも、どこかやわらかい空気感を持ち込むスタイルが特徴的。
“素材そのものの力を引き出すこと”を大切にしているという言葉通り、天ぷらというより、自然と向き合う静かな料理という印象が強い。
空間もまた、肩肘張らずに過ごせる上質さがあり、食事の余白を心地よく支えてくれる。
華美さよりも、内に秘めた思想を感じるような懐石天ぷらだった。