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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
JR湖西線マキノ駅から車で5分ほどの湖岸に佇む、1990年開業の鮒寿し懐石専門店。
※電車利用者には送迎付き。
「ゴ･エ･ミヨ」2023-2025で3トックの評価。
お寿司の原点といわれる「なれずし」をルーツに持つ、近江に伝わる発酵食品「鮒寿し」をメインにした鮒寿し懐石が頂けるオーベルジュ。
1784年創業の鮒寿し専門店「魚治」が母体で、6代目が常連だった遠藤周作氏に名付けを依頼した「湖里庵」。
1990年の開業当初は料理旅館でしたが、2018年の台風で建物が被害を受け建て直し、2021年より１日１客のみ宿泊できるオーベルジュとして再開している。
漫画「美味しんぼ」の5巻に魚治の実名で登場することでも有名で、現在は京都の料亭で修行した7代目が腕を振るっています。
いつかは行きたいなとぼんやりとイメージしていたお店でしたが、今回の旅行の目玉として1番最初に予約して訪れました。
立て直した新しい建物は、大きなガラス窓から琵琶湖が見渡せることができる最高のロケーション。
〈食前酒〉
滋賀の酒蔵、富田酒造の「七本鎗 awaibuki」。
甘くて飲みやすい微炭酸（スパークリング）の日本酒。
〈先付〉
琵琶湖産ホンモロコの南蛮漬け。
コイ科の淡水魚では世界一うまいとも言われる高級魚を涼しげなガラスの器で。
衣は纏っておらず素揚げなのかな？表面がカリッと中はふんわり、ほんのりとした酸味、頭から丸かじりするもの苦味はほとんど感じず。
〈八寸〉
七夕をイメージした船を模した金属の器。
内容は、氷魚の土佐酢、若鮎の握り寿し、こごみの和え物、鴨ロース、琵琶湖の手長海老、鮒寿しの甘露漬け、2年越し鮒寿しのとも和え、えんどう豆
氷魚には酸味控えめの土佐酢のジュレが掛けられてて、出汁の旨みとほんのり爽やかな酸味が心地よい冷んやりしたひと品。
そもそも、焼いた鮎以外を口にするとがほとんどないので、若鮎の握り寿しは目にした瞬間に興味津々でしたが、酸味と共にほんのり苦味を感じるが食べやすい味付け。
鮒寿しの甘露漬けは、近江高島で愛される郷土のひとつで、酒粕の甘味と芳醇な香りを楽しめる鮒寿しです。
独特の酸味のある鮒寿しのご飯を取りのぞき、
酒粕に幾度も漬け替えているので初心者でも食べやすいかも。
鮒寿しのとも和えは、2冬かけて発酵させた鮒寿しの身を刻みコクのある飯（いい）で和えた、鮒寿しとは違った新しい食感でお酒のつまみにぴったり。
こちらは食べ切らずに食事の最後まで少しずつつまむ感じ。
魚治でも販売している鮒寿しのとも和えですが、香りはしっかり鮒寿しです（笑）
〈お凌ぎ〉
トマト素麺。
優しい味付けの冷たい出汁にトマト、オクラ、ヤングコーン、蓴菜が浮かんでて涼しげ。
トマトの横に焼いた鮒寿しがトッピングされてて、香りの相性がいいそうです
〈向付〉
フナの刺身の表面に塩水で茹でたフナの卵をまぶした、滋賀県の郷土料理である鮒の子まぶし。
弾力のあるコリコリした食感を想像してたのですが、昆布締めの様にねっとりした食感で旨味が口に広が李不思議。
二倍酢で美味しく頂きました。
〈焼き物〉
鮒寿し餅。
炙ることで、香りを際立たせ、発酵香が和らぎ、酸味が立つ。
まさかの焼き餅との相性がよく美味だった。
〈揚げ物〉
琵琶湖の若鮎、ヨモギ、お茶の葉の天ぷら。
ふっくらとしてて程よい苦味を感じる鮎の天ぷら。
香り豊かでぴりっとする山椒塩で頂く。
〈焚き合わせ〉
鮒寿しの発酵したご飯で作った「なれずし」をチーズの代わりにしたパスタ。
芳醇な香りが漂い、酸味とコク、旨みをしっかり感じるまろやかなパスタです。
からのバケットで残ったソースもしっかり楽しみます。
〈お椀〉
鮒寿しの頭が入ってて、薄めの一番出しで鮒寿しの骨を楽しむ。
〈焼き魚〉
鮎の焼き物
苔を食べない鮎を使い、頭に脂を集めル焼き方をしているそうです。
臭みのないほろ苦い鮎を山椒の香りをつけた酢でさっぱりと頂きました。
今まで食べてきた苦いだけの鮎とは全く違う食べ物だ。
〈ご飯〉
漫画「美味しんぼ」にも登場した鮒寿しの茶漬け。
鮒寿しの食べ方としては1番ポピュラーで、鮒寿しの熟成されたコクのある酸味が美味。
香の物は、若鮎の木の芽焚き、昆布の佃煮、キャベツの酢漬け、蕪の漬物。
〈水物〉
作りたてのプルンプルンのわらび餅を、黒蜜と自家焙煎したきな粉頂く。
梅の甘露煮も柔らかくて甘〜い。
琵琶湖のこと、旬の魚介のこと、この地の歴史のこと、いろいろお話ししてくださるので勉強にもなりました。
料理だけでなく、琵琶湖の景色も楽しませて頂き最高の時間を過ごせました。