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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
地下鉄丸太町駅から徒歩5分ほど、京都御苑の南側に位置する住宅街にある、2017年に開業の日本料理店。
住宅街のマンションの1階と2階に店を構えており看板も小さく軽く通り過ぎてしまいました（笑）
「ゴ･エ･ミヨ」2022-2025で3トックの評価。
「ミシュランガイド京都・大阪」2018-2025で一つ星を獲得。
「京都和久傳」で15年研鑽を積んだ料理長の木山氏が独立して開業し、わずか半年でミシュランの一つ星を獲得したことでも話題になった日本料理店。
マンションの一角に店を構える同店ですが、敷地で湧く井戸水を使用した出汁が有名。
前々から気にしていたお店ですが、写真撮影が解禁になったことを知り予約。
平日の12:00に訪問です。
１階のカウンター席に案内されました。
まずは、井戸水の白湯から頂き、その後大将に食前酒を盃に入れてもらい料理が始まる。
この日は夜も予定があったので、アルコールは梅酒のソーダ割りのみで、その後はかぶせ茶を頂く。
〈先付け〉
アスパラソバージュ、甘エビの昆布じめ、白ずいき、西瓜、スイスチャード、トマトのスリ流し。
具沢山だけど、甘みと酸味を兼ね備えた和風ガスパチョって感じで涼しげなひと品
ぷりぷり、ねっとり、しゃきしゃきといろんな食感も楽しめるのもいい。
〈揚げ物〉
トキシラズときゅうりの天ぷらに、ほおずき大根おろし。
食べ頃で脂がたっぷり乗ったトキシラズと加賀太きゅうりを米粉の衣でサクッと揚げた天ぷらを、ほおずきと大根のおろしで頂くのですが、甘みと酸味が心地よい。
きゅうりは水分が多く熱々なので要注意（笑）
〈お造り〉
駿河湾産ハナダイの蕗の葉の醤油漬け、キャベツの酢漬け。
身が柔らかく水分が多いハナダイの醤油漬けは、独特の風味のある和風カルパッチョみたいで、キャベツの酢漬けの酸味がアクセントになってる。
〈鰹節の食べ比べ〉
木山大将が登場し、荒節と本枯節のこと、ここの井戸水が超軟水で昆布だしが出やすいことの説明を受けた後、荒節と本枯節の食べ比べ。
井戸水を使い礼文産利尻昆布でとった出汁に、2種類の鰹節を入れ、目の前で引き立てた一番出しを頂く。
香り高く旨みたっぷりで上品な出汁が美味いのは当然なのですが、目の前で繰り広げられるパフォーマンスによって、より出汁に意識が向く。
〈お椀〉
太刀魚、新玉ねぎを合わせた胡麻豆腐、蓴菜、おかわかめ。
身厚でふわふわの太刀魚と玉ねぎの風味が豊かな不思議な胡麻豆腐。
出汁の風味はしっかりあるものの、前面に出しゃばることなく奥ゆかしく優しい味に感じた。
また、香り付けで使っている柚子の爽やかさが心地よい。
おかわかめと蓴菜のヌメヌメ食感が不思議な感じ。
〈小鉢〉
クレソン、アスパラガス、菊菜、おくらの白酢あえに上から砕いたくるみを振りかけてる。
一瞬、クリームチーズを食べてるのかと錯覚するほど滑らかな舌触りて、ほんのりと酢が香るクリーミーでコクがあるひと品。
それぞれ異なる食感で、香ばしさを出すくるみもいい仕事をしている。
〈焼物〉
琵琶湖産鮎の塩焼き蓼酢ソース。
蓼酢の爽やかな苦味と酸味が鮎の塩焼きと相性がいいのは鉄板ですが、今回のソースには甘みも感じ鮎がより美味しく感じた。
これは、通常廃棄されるはずのどぶろくの酒粕を使用して醸した、まろやかで甘みのある米酢である「どぶ酢」がら使用されているからとのこと。
〈炊合せ〉
鰻の印籠焼き、賀茂茄子、スナップエンドウ。
筒切りにした鰻の中に牛蒡を詰めて焼いた印籠焼きは、思ってた以上に相性がいい。
出汁をたっぷり吸った賀茂茄子は、口の中で旨みが一気に広がり至福。
ちょっと暗い色になるひと品ですが、スナップエンドウの鮮やかな緑で華やかに。
〈食事〉
〆の食事は4種類用意されていて、好きな種類を好きな大きさをら選べる。
・とうもろこしご飯
・煮穴子玉子とじ丼
・じゃこご飯と卵黄
・貝出汁ラーメン
この中から、とうもろこしご飯、煮穴子玉子とじ丼、じゃこご飯と卵黄を頂く。
とうもろこしの旨みをたっぷり吸ったお米は優しい甘みで香りもいい。
ふわふわの煮穴子とふわとろの玉子と、口の中にがとろとろになり幸せ。
ご飯が見えなくなるほどふんだんに盛られたじゃこ、香り高い削り節、濃厚な卵黄と白米のお供三種の神器みたいで好きです（笑）
〈水物〉
スイカと和三盆の煮凝り。
ミニトマトみたいな赤い塊がグラスの中に盛られています。
スイカを丸くくり抜いた赤い塊と和三盆の甘みが程よく涼しげで夏にぴったり。
大元のスイカの器が1番映えそうだなと思った（笑）
こちらのランチは出汁とお水の美味しさを味わうシンプルな構成で高級食材も含まれないので価格もかなり抑えられてて、初めての会席料理にも普段使いにも丁度いい。
俗にいう高級な食材は使用していませんが、関西で常時取引があるのは数件しかないとされる静岡県焼津にある「サスエ前田魚店」の魚を使用したり、〆のラーメンの麺は京都で何年もビブグルマンの評価を得続ける「猪一」から取り寄せるなど食材にも妥協はありません。
ただ、八寸は出てこないのでちょっと変化球かもしれない。