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〈先付〉山芋の薯蕷蒸し
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〈飯碗〉蛤（焼津）のお粥
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〈向付〉蒸しカマス（焼津産）
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〈椀盛〉白甘鯛、焼き茄子のお吸い物
※本来は椎茸も入っています。
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〈お造り①〉ヤイトガツオの神経締め（御前崎産）
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〈お造り②〉ハタ（焼津産）
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〈揚げ物〉ホウボウと蓮根の包み揚げ
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生きている赤座海老
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〈焼き物①〉赤座海老の焼きしゃぶ（駿河湾産）
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赤座海老の出汁
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〈箸休め①〉朝獲れ焼きブロッコリー
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〈焼き物②〉金目鯛の鱗焼き、実山椒醤油添え
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〈箸休め②〉菜の花と小松菜の辛子ごまびたし
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〈預け鉢〉真鴨の治部煮
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〈食事〉
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〈甘味〉完熟いちご
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〈主菓子〉金鍔
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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
焼津駅から徒歩20分ほどの住宅街にひっそりと佇む、茶懐石料理店。
「ゴ･エ･ミヨ」2020-2025で3トックの評価。
更に、「ゴ･エ･ミヨ2025」では、杉山氏が「明日のグランシェフ賞」に選出されています。
日本を代表する鮮魚店「サスエ前田魚店」の魚をはじめ、地元焼津の四季を伝える食材を使用した繊細な火入れで持ち味を引き出す焼き物は唯一無二の逸品とされ、地元静岡だけでなく日本全国から支持されている人気店。
杉山氏の祖父母が「三州屋」という蕎麦屋を営み、「サスエ前田魚店」との取引が始まったのは50年以上前からだそうです。
ミシュランガイド東京で二つ星を獲得した茶懐石「和幸」の最初の弟子である父が、焼津に戻ってから開いたのが茶懐石「温石」の始まり。
杉山氏も、父と同じく今はなき目白の茶懐石「和幸」で修業を積み24歳で家に戻った後は父と共に茶懐石「温石」の厨房に立つ。
そして2018年に店舗をリニューアルして現在の茶懐石「温石」を開く。
平日の12:00過ぎに到着。
びびって予約時間よりだいぶん早く着き待つ。
少し早めの12:20頃扉が開き案内される。
扉からそのまま店内に入るのではなく、竹垣や石畳から店内へ向かう。
大きめの焼台付きの板場を囲む、コの字型のカウンター9席。
決まった献立はなく、駿河湾の魚貝、静岡の野菜を中心に、その時期にもっとも状態のよい素材に合わせて杉山氏が構成を決めていきます。
〈先付〉
山芋の薯蕷蒸し
栽培した自然薯をメレンゲ状にしたものの上に、生のカラスミ、炙った山芋の皮、わさびが乗ってて、周りにとろみを効かせた出汁。
ふわふわの山芋にはシャリっとした食感も少し残ってて、香ばしさと優しい味付けの出汁。
カラスミの程よい塩気と独特の風味がいいアクセントになってる。
〈飯碗〉
蛤（焼津）のお粥
中にはもち麦、自家製のわさび漬け。
コリコリと弾力が少し残るものの簡単に噛み切れるほど柔らかく煮た蛤。
こちらもお粥なだけあって優しい味付けですが、酒粕の香りと辛味控えめ自家製のわさび漬けがアクセントになっててお酒の肴にもなる。
〈向付〉
蒸しカマス（焼津産）
身厚でふわふわのカマスの下には白菜が敷いてあり、食感の違いがいいアクセントにはなっているものの、個人的には違う野菜の方が・・・好きかも。
塩味とともにほんのりお茶の香りがする上品なひと品ではあります。
〈椀盛〉
白甘鯛、焼き茄子のお吸い物
※本来は椎茸も入っています。
ふわふわで身厚の白甘鯛は脂がたっぷり。
鯛の旨みがたっぷりと滲み出た出汁はまろやかで優しい味付けに仕上がってて全身に染み渡る美味さだ。
焼き茄子の香ばしさ、柚子の爽やかな香りが口の中で風味の幅を広げててくれてる。
〈お造り①〉
ヤイトガツオの神経締め（御前崎産）
玉ねぎのみじん切り、わさび、塩、醤油。
「ヤイトガツオ」とは、市場にはほぼ出回らない背中が「中トロ」腹側が「大トロ」といわれる事があるくらい脂がのり、「全身トロ」と称される「スマ」の別名で、初めて食べました。
本当に見た目はマグロの様です（笑）
薄めにスライスされているものの、新鮮なため弾力があり、これでもかってほど脂がたっぷり乗っているので、塩だけでも美味が際立つ。
玉ねぎのみじん切りを包んで食べると、ザクザクの食感が加わり楽しく、ほんのり広がる辛味が心地よい。
多分お酒にとても合うと思う。
〈お造り②〉
ハタ（焼津産）
ぷりぷりと弾力があり癖がなく淡白な味わいの白身ですが、脂がたっぷり乗り塩で頂くことで旨みが引き立ち、軽く炙っているので香ばしさも広がる。
柔らかいヤイトガツオとぷりぷりで歯を弾くほど弾力のあるハタを順に頂くことでそれぞれの美味さがよく分かっていい。
〈揚げ物〉
ホウボウと蓮根の包み揚げ
見た目はグロテスクだが美味い魚の代表格。
こちらも癖がなく淡白な味わいの白身ですが、蓮根の甘みがふわっとしたホウボウの身を包み込んでて美味さが際立つ。
〈焼き物①〉
赤座海老の焼きしゃぶ（駿河湾産）
見た目は鮮やかな橙色で手の長いザリガニに見えるけど、「エビのプリンセス」とも称される深海に生息する日本固有種。
外側はしっかり火が通り中はレアの身を、味付けは塩のみで手で持ち上げて豪快にひと口で齧りつく。
ぷりっぷりで弾力があり、噛むほどに口の中に甘みが広がる至福。
〈箸休め①〉
朝獲れ焼きブロッコリー
赤座海老のミソと卵を絡めてます。
さっきまで生きていた海老のミソと卵は臭みが全くなく、どろっとて濃厚で甘い。
ミソが絡みついブロッコリーがご馳走に変身。
〈焼き物②〉
金目鯛の鱗焼き、実山椒醤油添え
炭との距離を細やかに調整し、こまめに場所を動かし手間暇をかけながら焼き上げてました。
逆立つ鱗はサクサクで香ばしくて中心部はほんのりレアの絶妙な火入れで身はふっくらジューシーと感動する美味さ。
まさにこちらのスペシャリテに相応しい。
ひと口のベストなサイズになるように包丁を入れて提供されている細やかさも嬉しい。
〈箸休め②〉
菜の花と小松菜の辛子ごまびたし
しっかりと食感が残り、程よい辛さ。
〈預け鉢〉
真鴨の治部煮
磐田産の海老芋とほうれん草が添えられてる。どろっとした出汁に包まれた柔らかい鴨肉は旨みが閉じ込められてて、海老芋とほうれん草の異なる甘さがいい脇役。
〈食事〉
静岡産の新米を主役に、鰆の幽庵焼き、野菜のコロッケ、蓮根のきんぴら、香の物、味噌汁。
新米を味わってほしいとのことで、炊き込みご飯ではなくお食事セットだそうです。
ほんのりと漂う柑橘の爽やかな香りと酸味を感じる鰆の幽庵焼きはもちろん美味しかったけど、蓮根のきんぴらの食感と風味がドストライクでご飯が進む（笑）
おかわりのご飯もあり、2種類の丼が用意されてました。
今回は、漬けカツオの丼を頂いた。
ご飯は小盛りでお願いしたので、脂がたっぷり乗ったカツオでご飯が見えない（笑）
〈甘味〉
完熟いちご（きらぴ香、紅ほっぺ：静岡産）
スーパーなどでは絶対に見ることができない大ぶりのいちごでした。
両方とも鮮やかで濃厚な赤色で甘い。
きらぴ香の方がややとんがってて果肉は硬め。
ほどよい酸味と甘みがぎゅぎゅっと詰まったきらぴ香は、静岡県が力を入れてる新品種。
〈主菓子〉
御殿場産紅はるかを使った金鍔。
中にはキャラメリゼした胡桃。
甘みの中にほんのりと苦味を感じる大人の味。
〈抹茶〉
最後は大将が仕立てて下さる抹茶で〆。
この日は、年末なのにサスエさんがいいお魚を沢山用意してくれたそうで、いつものコース料金＋@3,000でしたが大満足の内容でした。
12:30スタートですが、食事時間はだいたい2時間半ほど要します。
東京からだと新幹線で日帰りできるので、40,000〜50,000ほどする銀座の日本料理のお店に行くのとトータルはほぼ変わりません。
魚を中心とした食材で優しい味付けの料理が好みの方には必見のお店だと思います。
また予約に挑戦してみたいお店ですね。