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六本木で“焼肉”の枠を超えたコース体験ができる新店。今回は◎金襴手コース(15,000円)を注文。結論から言うと、いわゆる高級焼肉というよりも、和の技法と遊び心を掛け合わせた「料理としての焼肉」を楽しむ構成が印象的だった。
序盤は白菜の林檎酢漬けや千枚の生ポン酢など、口を整える前菜からスタート。どれも重さはなく、酸味や香りで食欲を引き上げる役割が明確。ハツは九条葱と黒七味だれで、内臓特有のクセを抑えつつ、香ばしさとコクをうまく引き出している。出汁香る和牛の肝吸いも、焼肉店の枠に収まらない丁寧さがあり、コース全体の方向性を感じさせる一品。
名物の近江彦根和牛京味噌漬けは、味噌の主張が強すぎず、赤身の旨さを引き立てる仕上がり。泡醤油とさがりは視覚的にも印象に残り、軽やかな醤油の香りが肉の甘みとよく合う。中盤の黒楽土鍋ご飯、菓子椀仕立てのユッケ風など、緩急のある構成で飽きさせない。
クライマックスは大皿で提供される金襴手盛り。盛り付けの美しさと肉質の良さが一体となり、写真以上に実物の迫力がある。〆の牛骨白湯ラーメンまで含め、満足度は高いが重すぎない。接待や記念日など、“きちんとした食事”として使いたい一軒。
六本木 大皿焼肉 老中
050-5597-3029
東京都港区六本木1-4-5 アークヒルズサウスタワー 1F 103