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中目黒の路地にひっそりと佇む天婦羅専門店。
カウンター中心の凛とした空間で、余計な装飾はなく、油の音と職人の所作に自然と集中させられます。今回は〈30800円コース〉をいただきましたが、結論から言うと“天婦羅の記憶が塗り替えられる”体験でした。
序盤の車海老やたけのこ、カニのシソ巻きなど、素材の良さをまっすぐに感じさせる天婦羅が続き、油の軽さと温度管理の正確さに驚かされます。特に印象的だったのが、海苔天に漬けまぐろ・雲丹・キャビアを重ねた一品。天婦羅でありながら、まるで一皿の料理として完成されており、口に入れた瞬間に海の旨みが層になって広がります。
中盤の鮑の肝ソースのしゃぶしゃぶや、椎茸といった季節感のある構成も見事で、コース全体に緩急がついているのが印象的。
そして、この日のハイライトは間違いなく
和牛シャトーブリアンの天婦羅。
衣は極限まで薄く、噛んだ瞬間に肉の繊維がほどけ、上質な脂が静かに広がる。揚げているのに重さは一切なく、「揚げることで旨くなる和牛」がここにある、と納得させられる一品でした。
締めのトマトご飯と天ばらまで一切のブレがなく、最初から最後まで“緊張感のある美味しさ”。
特別な日に選びたい、間違いなく記憶に残る天婦羅店です!!