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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
冬の銀座8丁目。予約時間には少し早いのですがお店の前に着いた瞬間、格子戸が静かに開き「○○様でしょうか」と声をかけられます。
まるでこちらの到着を見計らっていたかのようなお出迎えに、自然と背筋が伸びました。まだ入店前にもかかわらず、きちんと迎えていただいていることが伝わり、特別な時間の始まりを予感します。
店内は白木のカウンターが10席のみ。派手さはありませんが、無駄のない美しさと清潔感があり、静かで心地よい空間です。中央にはおくどさん（埋め込み式のかまど）が据えられ、火の音や立ち上る香りが間近に感じられます。料理が仕上がっていく様子を眺めながら過ごす時間そのものが、すでに贅沢です。
大将はいかにも職人気質とは真逆でとても楽しく柔らかで印象的な方。料理の説明も難しい言葉は使わず、こちらが自然に理解できるように話してくださいます。所作も美しく、火入れや盛り付けの一つひとつに無駄がありません。決して派手ではありませんが、場の空気をつくるのがとても上手で、自然と引き込まれていきます。料理人でありながら、まさにエンターテイナーと呼びたくなる存在です。
堅苦しさはなく、ほどよい緊張感と安心感のバランスが絶妙。必要以上に話しかけられることはありませんが、質問をすると丁寧に答えてくださり、その距離感がとても心地よく感じられました。女性一人でも、落ち着いて食事を楽しめそうです。
女将さんの存在も、このお店の大きな魅力。山梨出身とのことで、ワインの品揃えが素晴らしく、お酒への知識の深さに驚かされます。和食店でありながら、料理に合わせたワインの提案がとても自然で、押しつけがましさがありません。常に新しいお酒を勉強されている様子も伝わり、安心してお任せできます。
冬の特別コースは、全体的にやさしく、滋味深い構成。海老芋とからすみは、ねっとりとした食感と旨みが重なり、最初から印象に残る一品です。北海道産の百合根ときくらげに、わさびのアクセント。白甘鯛の骨から取った出汁は澄み切っていて、身体にすっと染み渡ります。
氷見の鰆はマルドーの塩でいただき、素材の良さが際立ちます。ミネラル感のある塩が身の甘みを引き出し、シンプルながら記憶に残る味わい。海老芋の唐揚げは外は香ばしく中はほくほくで、冬らしい満足感があります。終盤に登場した鳥取県境港市の松葉蟹は、派手さはないものの、しっかりとした旨みでコースを支えていました。
すっぽんは肉が凝縮しており骨身の周りを濃厚なタレで頂きました。香り高い高級な山椒にピッタリと寄り添います。
この後の蟹がこれまた素晴らしかった。
ぷりっぷりの蟹しゃぶを蟹味噌といただく贅沢。繊維がきめ細かく、口に入れた瞬間にほろりとほどけるあの身質。お店の命である出汁にくぐらせた一瞬、身がふわっと花開くあの表情。火が入りすぎる前の、半生に近い状態こそ蟹の真骨頂です。旨味が凝縮され、甘さが最大限に引き出されます。
そこに蟹味噌。
濃厚でコクがあり、ほのかな苦味と磯の香りが重なる大人の味。その蟹味噌を、しゃぶっとした蟹身に絡め、淡×濃、軽やかさ×深み。まさに完成された組み合わせでした。
自慢の土鍋で炊く白米は火力の強さのため蒸らす必要がなく炊き立ての熱々をすぐに頂くのですが、さすがの美味しさ。
ご飯のおかずとしてまさかの捏が登場。恐ろしいほどの肉の旨み。拘りの鶏卵に絡めてもよし。
コースの最後は、女将のお手前による抹茶。静かな所作で点てられた一服が、食事の余韻をきれいにまとめてくれます。合わせる甘味はみかんの大福。大福の生地が驚くほど薄く、口に入れるとみかんの瑞々しさがそのまま伝わり、重さを感じさせない素晴らしい味わいでした。
これで終わりかと思いきや、さらに甘味がもう一品。最後は山椒のガトーショコラです。ほのかな痺れ感と濃厚なチョコレートがよく合い、甘さの中にキレのある、印象的な締めくくりとなりました。
料理、空間、人、そのすべてがさりげなく上質で、終始心地よい時間。内容は日ごとに変わるそうなので、季節を変えてまた伺いたくなる一軒です。