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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
新潟駅のほど近く、喧騒を一歩離れた場所に佇む「起承転結」。暖簾をくぐると、外の気配がすっと遠のき、静かな時間が流れ始めます。派手な設えではありませんが、却ってその控えめさが心を落ち着かせてくれます。
まずは入店時、店主の柔らかな笑顔でのお出迎えに心が救われる。店内の凛とした内装の雰囲気が優しいお声がけで一気になごみます。
驚きなのは飲み放題のドリンクメニューが飲み放題とは思えない内容で、嬉しい誤算。おまかせの日本酒もありうれしい悲鳴。
さて、まず最初に供されたのは、春菊のおひたしとあん肝の旨煮でした。優しい茄子の煮浸しの上に整えられた春菊は、過度な主張はなく口に含むと青みと出汁のやさしさが静かに広がり、この先の流れを予感させます。
石川県産サワラの炙りは、火入れの香ばしさが印象的で、鹿児島産カンパチの胡麻醤油和えは、味に丸みがありながらも品を失いません。青森県産の平目は、余計な言葉を要しない、素直な旨みが感じられました。
佐渡産銀鮭の西京焼は、バジル味噌という意外性を含みつつも、どこか穏やかな調和があります。愛媛県産シマアジの自家製葱玉乗せ、そして鰤へと続く流れも、重さを感じさせず、自然です。
白子とマッシュルームの茶碗蒸しは、滑らかな口当たりで、季節の移ろいを思わせる一品でした。
握りに入ると、北海道産ホッキ貝は中に忍ばせた貝ひもが静かな変化を添え、佐渡産南蛮海老の甘みは、記憶に残るやさしさがあります。やま幸の本鮪は赤身と中とろの食べ比べで、脂と旨みの違いを落ち着いて味わえました。
蒸し鮑は、肝ソースとともに供され、十分に鮑を堪能した後、シャリを加えてリゾットのように仕上げていただきます。濃厚でありながら、どこか節度があり、余韻が長く残ります。
蒸し海老は静かに供され、その後、バフンウニは手渡しで。
続く千葉県産金目鯛は炙られ、かぼすの香りがふわりと立ち上がります。
蒸し鰻もまた、海苔に乗せて手渡され、終盤にささやかな高揚を添えてくれました。
締めの魚沼産なめこの赤だしで心を整え、最後は起承転結流の玉。
白身魚のすり身を使わず、卵と牛乳のみで焼き上げた自家製カステラは、甘さを抑えた優しい味わいで、静かに幕を下ろします。
錫の器で供される日本酒をはじめだいやめや生ビールを含む飲み放題付きで11,000円。
声高に語ることなく、ただ「よろしき夜であった」と思わせてくれる一軒でした。