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西麻布の路地裏にひっそりと佇む「西麻布 大竹」。過度な演出を排し、料理そのものの力で客を納得させる正統派の日本料理店である。
素材の持ち味を最大限に引き出す“引き算の料理”は、一皿一皿に実直に表れている。
先付の茶碗蒸しは、口当たりは驚くほど滑らかで、余韻にわずかな苦味と香ばしさを残す。派手さはないが、食事の導入としてこれ以上ない静かな高揚感をもたらす一品である。
造りは鮪を中心に、脂の質、包丁の入れ方、温度管理まで抜かりなく、塩・山葵・醤油それぞれで表情が変わる計算された構成。炙りを施した魚も香りが立ち、素材の良さが素直に伝わってくる。
椀物は澄んだ出汁が印象的で、揚げた白身魚と青菜の取り合わせが季節感を演出する。
焼物には脂の乗った魚を用い、火入れは的確。表面の香ばしさと中のふっくら感の対比が心地よい。終盤に供されるクリームコロッケも衣が軽く、素材の甘みを閉じ込めており、添えられた塩が実に効果的であった。
締めの炊き込みご飯は、米一粒一粒に旨味が行き渡り、椀と香の物とのバランスも良い。全体を通して感じるのは、流行に迎合しない確固たる軸と、客に委ねる余白の美学である。
華美ではないが、確実に記憶に残る一軒。西麻布という土地において、静かに、しかし力強く存在感を放つ日本料理店である。