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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
銀座の路地に静かに暖簾を掲げる「堀之内」は、派手な演出とは無縁ながら確かな技と素材の力で客を納得させる一軒である。店全体に流れる空気から、料理と真摯に向き合ってきた時間の厚みが感じられる。
この日の構成は、刺身、鮟肝、酒肴など流れ自体は極めて王道。しかし一品一品の完成度が高く、単なる定型に収まらない。
ホタテと白身魚の造りは、繊維の立ち方が美しく、噛み締めるほどに旨味が静かに広がる。柑橘と塩、山葵の使い分けも的確で、素材の個性を決して覆い隠さない。
肝を使った一品は、濃厚さと清涼感のバランスが秀逸で、薬味や酸味の効かせ方に料理人の引き出しの多さを感じさせる。
鰹は皮目の扱いが巧みで、火入れによる香ばしさと生の瑞々しさが共存する仕上がりであった。牡蠣は磯の香りを生かしつつ、余計な水分を感じさせない処理がなされ、酒を自然と呼び込む。
白子の焼物においても火の入れは控えめながら的確で、素材が最も美味しくなる瞬間を逃さない。握りも派手さよりも温度、切り付け、余韻を重視した実直な仕事ぶりが印象に残る。
「堀之内」は、銀座という土地にありながら、過剰な高級感に寄りかかることなく、あくまで料理の質で語る店である。
経験を重ねた料理人の確かな判断と、素材への敬意が随所に表れ、静かだが強い満足感を残す。和食の基本を丁寧に積み上げた先にある、信頼のおける一軒であった。