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浦和の街を歩く午後、ふと目に留まる古びた暖簾がある。その影には老舗の時間が潜んでいる。創業は1937年、【中村家】。この数字が示す歴史の重みは、店先に漂う香ばしい煙となり、道行く者の記憶を呼び起こす。
店の命たる火入れは紀州備長炭。その炎の上で焼かれるのは厳選された国産うなぎだ。熱をまとい、しっとりとした身に、さっぱりしながら深みある甘辛い秘伝のタレが艶めきを添える。この一連の所作は、まさに一子相伝の技。その確かな手つきが、やがて目の前のうな重となり、箸先を通じて静かに伝わってくる。
まずは喉をヱビスビールで潤す。泡越しに目を細め、ゆっくり味わうのは、気取らず、ただひたすらに確かな浦和の味そのもの。ここでは、時間の流れさえもがタレのように濃厚で、そして甘い。
■うな重(中) 3500円
■サッポロヱビス(中瓶) 800円