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平日の昼、静かな築地の裏路地を歩き、木の暖簾をくぐると、そこにはわずか8席のカウンター。大将の 安井 大和 氏が修行を積んだ名店 日本橋蛎殻町 すぎた のDNAをしっかり受け継ぎながらも、自らの流儀を加えた実直な江戸前鮨の世界が広がっていた。
まず出てきたのが、しっかり仕事をされた小肌。見た目は身がふっくらと厚く、光沢のある酢締めのコハダが艶を帯びている。口に含むと、まず酢飯との調和が鮮やかに感じられ、紅白の酢飯がきりっと小肌を包む。噛み進めるほどに、小肌の旨みと軽い酸味、そして魚の甘みがふわりと立ち上がり、最後には喉の奥に残るほのかな余韻が「ここに来て良かった」と思わせてくれる。まさに一貫目から完成された世界。
店内は白木のカウンターが清々しく、目の前で大将が包丁を研ぎ、ネタを裁ぎ、握る所作は静かで無駄がない。その雰囲気が、日常のなかの“小さなご褒美”という言葉にふさわしい時間にしてくれる。人柄も柔らかく、握りと会話が心地よく交わるひととき。帰り際には「ぜひまた」と自然に思える、そんな余韻を携えて店をあとにした。ごちそうさまでした。
こはだ
アオリイカ
真鯛
カスゴ
しまえび
ヒラメの昆布締め
小鰯
マグロヅケ
マグロハガシ
あじ
シャコ
ニイカ
クルマエビ
バフンうに、利尻