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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
食通の間で名の知れた「鮨さいとう」がプロデュースする店、「鮨つぼみ」。その暖簾をくぐると、凛とした空気と同時にどこか柔らかな温もりが広がる。カウンターに立つのは、さいとうで修業を重ねた若き職人たち。今回は偶然にも予約を取ることができ、サブカウンターで岩野上幸太氏の手仕事に出会うこととなった。
まず供されたのは、真いくらの出汁漬け。艶やかな粒がきらめき、海苔の香りと共に口いっぱいに広がる。揚げたての新銀杏はほろ苦さが心地よく、秋の気配を舌で感じさせる。続いて登場した真イカのゲソ焼きは、香ばしい匂いとプリッと弾ける食感が印象的。タコの刺身は噛み締めるほどに旨みが濃く、静かな余韻を残す。
握りの流れは、まるで四季を辿るように多彩であった。イワシにネギ味噌を添えた一貫は、肉厚な身の力強さと、生姜や海苔の香りが重なり合い、見事な調和を奏でる。炙った鯖には胡麻醤油が纏わり、香ばしさと濃厚な胡麻の香りが口中を支配する。ホッキ貝のしゃぶしゃぶはポン酢の酸味で引き締まり、油坊主の味噌焼きは火入れも味噌加減も絶妙で、脂の甘さを余すところなく引き出していた。
続くメイチダイやサワラのづけでは、身の透明感と旨みの深さに舌が澄んでいくよう。シンコや赤身、中トロと進む中で、特に印象的だったのはブルゴーニュのピノと中トロの相性。ワインの酸と果実味が脂の甘さを軽やかに引き立て、思わず頬が緩む。大トロの濃厚さ、スミイカの赤ちゃんのコリコリとした歯触り、秋刀魚の十年に一度の出来と称される脂ののり。赤ウニの濃厚な旨みは小さな爆弾のように弾け、穴子は舌の上でとろりと溶けていった。
締めには干瓢巻きと味噌汁、そして玉子焼き。干瓢の甘みを海苔が優しく包み、胡麻が香る味噌汁でほっと一息。最後の玉は、どこか家庭的で安らぐ味わいで、この時間が一気に日常へと溶け込んでいく感覚をもたらした。
ワインも日本酒も隙なく美味しく、何よりも職人の気配りが心地よい。若き手から生まれる一貫一貫が織りなす物語に、満ち足りた余韻を抱えながら席を後にした。ごちそうさまでした。