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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
上野駅から徒歩数分、賑やかな街並みの中にありながら、落ち着いた佇まいで存在感を放つ「東京とんかつ がぶう」。以前から評判を耳にしていたお店で、今回は人気の「特上フィレ定食」を目当てに訪問しました。店内は清潔感があり、カウンター中心のレイアウトで職人の動きを眺められるのも魅力のひとつ。油の匂いが重くないのは、揚げ油の管理が行き届いている証だと感じました。
注文後、目の前で丁寧にパン粉をまとわせ、じっくりと揚げていく様子を見ていると期待がどんどん高まります。特上フィレは肉質が良く、揚げ油の温度管理がシビアなため、時間をかけて揚げるというより“ゆっくりと火を入れる”感覚に近いような印象。衣がふんわりと立ち上がり、きつね色に染まる瞬間が美しい。提供までの時間も「待たされる」というより「素材を最高に仕上げるための工程を見守っている」という感覚に変わります。
いよいよフィレカツと対面。まず驚いたのはその厚み。まるでステーキのような塊肉で、断面はほんのり桜色を残した絶妙な火入れ。箸でそっと持ち上げると肉の弾力が感じられ、衣はサクッと軽やかで油っぽさがまったくありません。ひと口目をかじった瞬間、フィレらしい繊細さと柔らかさが同時に押し寄せ、噛むほどにじんわりと甘い肉汁が広がります。重厚な旨味というより、質の良い肉の清らかな味がゆっくりと舌の上に広がるタイプ。塩で食べるとそのピュアな旨味が際立ち、ソースで食べると衣の香ばしさが前に出てきます。
付け合わせのキャベツはシャキシャキで、甘味を感じるほど瑞々しい。卓上ドレッシングとの相性も良く、フィレの余韻をきれいにリセットしてくれます。味噌汁は出汁の風味がしっかりしており、家庭的な味でありながらバランスが取れた一杯。ご飯は粒立ち良く力を入れてることがわかる1品で、カツと一緒に食べても単体で食べても美味しい“主役を支える名脇役”といった印象です。おかわりが欲しくなるほどの完成度。
また、店員さんの接客も丁寧で、必要以上に干渉しない距離感が心地良い。料理の提供タイミングも的確で、揚げたてを最良の状態で出そうとする意識が伝わってきました。客層は一人客から観光客まで幅広く、居心地の良さは多くの人に愛される理由だと納得。
一品の完成度はもちろん、油の軽さや衣の香ばしさ、素材の活かし方など、細部にまでこだわりが詰まった特上フィレ定食。とんかつというシンプルな料理だからこそ、技術と誠実さが際立つ一皿だと強く感じました。上野で本当に美味しいとんかつを食べたい人に、自信を持っておすすめできる名店です。