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今年からミシュラン三ツ星を獲得したと聞き、ずっと気になっていた明寂へ。西麻布の地下にひっそりと構える空間は、店名の通り余計なものを削ぎ落とした静謐さがあり、料理と真剣に向き合うための舞台が整えられている印象でした。
料理は一貫して「素材そのものの味を楽しませる」構成。
技巧を誇示するというより、素材の良さをどう引き出すかに徹底的に向き合っているのが伝わってきます。
特に印象に残ったのが焼きもの。玉子を巻いて食べる魚料理は、ふわりとした玉子の甘みと魚の旨みが重なり、シンプルなのに記憶に残る味わいでした。
続く魚の焼きものは、塩加減と火入れがまさに完璧。皮目の香ばしさと身のしっとり感のコントラストが素晴らしく、焼きという技術の完成度の高さを実感します。
そして、蟹と蟹味噌を使った一皿は、正直言って異常な美味しさ。濃厚なのにくどさがなく、旨みだけが静かに押し寄せてくる感覚でした。
派手さはないのに、食後には確かな余韻が残る。特別な機会があれば、また必ず訪れたいと思えるお店です。