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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
「赤坂 渡なべ」は、
赤坂駅から徒歩5分ほど、エスポワール赤坂2階にある完全予約制の日本料理店です。店主の渡邊雄二郎氏は、新橋の「金田中」、赤坂の「津やま」で研鑽を積み、2018年に独立開業しました。檜のカウンターや個室を備えた全18席の空間は、接待や会食はもちろん、家族での利用にも対応しており、小学生からの来店が可能で、個室ならベビーカーも受け入れてくれるなど柔軟な姿勢も魅力です。2023年、2025年と食べログ日本料理TOKYO百名店にも選出され、今や食通から注目を集める一軒となっています。名物は、一釜ずつ炊き上げた新潟県関川村産のコシヒカリを用いた鯛茶漬け。料理は月替わりの会席で構成され、旬の素材を少量多皿で繊細に仕立てるのが特徴です。
この日の会席は、
自家製酵素ドリンクから始まりました。ビーツやキウイ、人参などを合わせた一杯は、食前酒代わりとして爽やかで、身体にやさしい印象。続く前菜は、季節の柿を器にした紅ズワイガニに土佐酢のゼリーをあしらった一皿で、旬の恵みを軽やかに感じさせてくれます。
八寸では、春菊と菊花を合わせたいくらのお浸しや、裏ごしして滑らかに仕上げたあん肝と奈良漬、子持ち鮎の有馬煮、唐墨のドリアなど、遊び心と伝統を織り交ぜた多彩な品々が続きました。どの料理も一口ごとに完結しており、熱いものは熱く、冷たいものは冷たく提供される徹底した姿勢が印象的です。
椀物は、卵豆腐にスッポンを忍ばせ、にんじんを兎の形に抜いて添えたお月見仕立て。優しい吸い地の中に深みのある旨味が広がります。魚料理は、勝浦の鰹を藁で香ばしく炙ったものや、千葉の鮑を肝ソースで仕上げた一品、能登白甘鯛の松笠焼きなど、それぞれの産地を尊重した仕立て。さらに、ブータン産松茸のフライは香り高く、秋らしい存在感を放っていました。
締めは、炊き立ての新潟産コシヒカリを使った鯛茶漬け。胡麻と出汁が鯛の甘みを引き立て、会席全体をまとめ上げる完成度の高さに心が和みます。デザートにはコーヒープリンや季節の果実のゼリー寄せが用意され、最後まで余韻を楽しませてくれました。
渡邊氏の料理は、修業先で培った伝統を礎にしながら、自身の工夫を織り込んだ構成。唐墨ドリアのような意外性を挟みながらも、全体に調和があり、過不足なく進んでいきます。接客は明るく気さくで、ホスピタリティーを大切にする姿勢が伝わります。家族連れにも優しい柔軟な対応があるため、幅広い世代が安心して訪れることができる点も、このお店の強みです。
四季折々の献立は訪れるたびに新しい発見があり、旬の食材が一皿ごとに鮮やかに映し出されます。春夏秋冬それぞれで体験してみたいと思わせてくれる日本料理店でした。