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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
焼鶏 鶉は、
西麻布の住宅街の一角、外苑西通りから少し入った静かな路地に佇む焼き鳥店です。六本木駅から徒歩6分、乃木坂駅から徒歩5分。喧騒とは無縁の穏やかなエリアにあり、小さな暖簾と控えめな行灯が出迎えてくれます。扉を開けると、木の香りと炭の香ばしさが混ざり合う、凛とした空気が広がります。
店内はカウンター8席と小さな個室で、照明は柔らかく、焼台の上だけを明るく照らします。火と煙が静かに揺れる様子が見え、カウンターには無駄がありません。目の前で串が焼かれていく音と香りが五感を刺激し、すべての動作が丁寧で、火を操る所作が自然に感じられます。
店主は20代という若さながら、10代から料理の道を歩み続けてきた職人です。16歳で地元の料理屋に入り、18歳で都内の焼鳥店で修業を開始。その後、神楽坂で副料理長を務め、国内外3店舗の立ち上げにも携わりました。都内の名店で研鑽を重ね、2023年に自身の理想を形にしたのが「鶉」です。信念は、素材を熟成させて旨味を引き出し、その状態を最適な火入れで仕上げることにあります。
部位や季節によって最も状態が良いものを自ら目利きし、納得がいかない素材は使いません。時にはコース構成を変えることもあります。ウォークインセラーには熟成ブルゴーニュを中心に約3000本を揃え、ロンドンの星付きレストランで修業したソムリエが在籍し、鶏とワインを合わせる提案をしてくれます。ジンは40種類以上、日本酒も40種類以上が揃い、料理ごとに異なる香りの組み合わせを楽しめます。
最初の一皿「黒薩摩地鶏のささみ カラスミがけ」から、店の方向性が明確に伝わります。低温で丁寧に火を入れたささみはしっとりと艶やかで、カラスミの塩味が淡い旨味を引き締め、昆布出汁の香りが穏やかに広がります。「新銀杏の串」は軽く塩を振り、香ばしさともちっとした食感、ほのかな苦味が重なり季節感を感じます。「胸肉のたたき」はわさびと塩で仕上げ、炭香と柔らかな甘みが印象的。「フリソデ」は皮目の香ばしさと脂の香りが力強く、一口で旨味が弾けます。
「炙り生つくねの手巻き」は鶏油の香ばしさとシャリの酸が重なり、潔く洗練された味わい。「レバー」は脱水処理で臭みなく、中はとろけるように滑らかで、甘みとコクの調和が絶妙です。「皮付きせせり」は4日熟成による深い旨味が広がり、炭と脂の香りが余韻をつくります。「手羽先の唐揚げ」は骨抜きで食べやすく、薄衣の中から肉汁が溢れる完成度の高い一皿。「ネギマ」はももの中にネギを巻き、岩塩で焼き上げることで香ばしさと清涼感を両立しています。
締めの「親子丼」は夢王卵のとろみがご飯を包み、熟成地鶏の旨味が全体に広がります。濃厚ながら重くなく、最後まで心地よい余韻が続きます。全体を通して火入れ、熟成、塩、炭の加減すべてが緻密に計算され、一本一本に職人の情熱を感じました。
接客は控えめでありながら的確です。焼きの進行や会話の間合いを見ながら自然なタイミングで料理が運ばれます。カウンター越しの店主は寡黙ですが、言葉に誠実さがあり、スタッフとの連携も良好です。静かな会話と炭の音が重なり、落ち着いて料理に向き合える環境が整っています。
全体を通して、一本の串に込められた緊張感と熱量をはっきりと感じます。火入れ、熟成、塩、炭の距離といった要素が緻密に設計され、最後の一串まで集中が途切れません。焼鶏を日本料理の枠の中で丁寧に高め、体験として成立させていると感じます。静かな空間で技術と誠実さに向き合える一軒として、再訪したいと思います。