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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
【店名】雅じん
【訪問日】2025年10月
【予約方法】食べログ
【混雑】カウンター中心で席数が少ないため早めの予約推奨
【予算】ディナー約¥20,000〜29,999
【訪問理由】友人のすすめ
「雅じん」は、
神楽坂駅から徒歩約3分の静かな路地にある日本料理店。店主・小川雅之氏は「雑司が谷寛」「牧」「懐石一文字」「かにじぇんぬ 銀座」「銀座すがの」などで研鑽を積んだ実力派で、2025年3月に満を持してオープン。店内は檜の香りが心地よいカウンター8席と小さな個室4席の計12席。甲殻類やすっぽんを軸に、季節の走りから名残までを的確な出汁と火入れで組み立てるコースが持ち味。日本酒は常時10種類以上を用意し、料理の塩味や温度に合わせて提案してくれる。
先付は「雲丹・鼈・毛蟹の茶碗蒸し」。すっぽんの出汁が澄んだ香りで立ち上がり、雲丹の甘みと重ならずに収まる設計。伊勢海老の脳髄が旨みの厚みを作り、毛蟹は細かいほぐしで口当たりが均一。椀は「鱧・信州松茸・葛煮」。骨切りが正確で鱧はほどける食感。松茸は厚みをそろえ、香りが抜群。葛のとろみは軽く、出汁の輪郭を保つ。氷造の「毛蟹・北寄貝・土佐酢ジュレ」は、氷皿の扱いが的確で、毛蟹は粒立ちがそろい、北寄貝は一定の厚みに仕立てて弾力と甘みが明快。土佐酢は角を立てずに全体をまとめる。凌ぎは「香茸・菱蟹・蟹味噌・飯蒸し」。餅米は芯がなくふっくら。香茸の強い香りに対し、蟹味噌の濃度と菱蟹の繊維感を合わせて、量も含めて印象がはっきり残る。
相肴「信州松茸天麩羅」は衣が薄く、油切れ良好。塩は最小限で松茸の水分と香りを素直に感じられる。酒肴「紅殻菱蟹の特製出汁漬け」は、渡り蟹の泳ぎ足を使い、ほどけの良い繊維に出汁が均一に入る。箸が自然に進む一品。温物の「毛蟹・松茸・柚子」は、蟹の水分を保つ火入れ、松茸の香りの残し方、柚子の当て具合がいずれも控えめで、具材が主役。強肴の「すっぽん西京焼」は看板料理。下処理が丁寧で雑味がなく、西京味噌の甘塩がすっぽんの滋味を引き上げる。表面は香ばしく、中はしっとり。骨際まで均一な火入れで、ここでしか食べられない。
日本酒は地酒中心に常時10種以上。辛口からふくらみのあるタイプまで揃い、量と温度の微調整も柔軟。
全体として、出汁の設計と火入れの精度が要所で効き、特に甲殻類の下処理と温度管理の徹底が印象的。香りや温度の流れが途切れず、序盤から終盤まで集中が続く。檜カウンターの清潔感、説明の明快さ、片付けの所作まで含めて隙がなく、会食や記念日の安心感が高い。席数が限られるため、日程が決まったら早めの予約が無難。季節替わりの主役食材で再訪したいと思える、コスパ最高の日本料理屋さんだった。