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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
代官山の住宅街にひっそりと佇む隠れ家イタリアン。誕生日に訪れて以来、秋の訪問は初めてで今回で3回目の来店となります。大通りから1本小道に入ると静かな路地に灯る店の明かりが見えてきます。イタリア滞在中に親しんだ郷土料理を思い出させてくれるような、感性豊かな料理がいつも心を掴まれます。
この日のコース（14000円）も、シェフの出身地である大分の旬の魚介や野菜を中心に構成されており、素材ごとの個性が最大限に引き出されていました。一皿一皿にストーリーがあり、味の展開も流れるようで、前回よりさらに洗練された印象です。
アミューズは、モッツァレラのムースにプラットオレンジの泡を纏わせた前菜。軽やかで爽やか、ほんのりとした酸味が優しい一皿でした。
続く前菜、国東半島キジハタのカルパッチョは、オシェトラキャビアと香草が散りばめられており、秋のキジハタは繊細ながらも力強い旨味が口に広がります。和とイタリアンの融合というこの店らしさが詰まった一品です。この日は2キロ超えのキジハタでした。
黒鮑とジロール茸のリゾットは、２時間蒸した黒鮑と茸の香り、出汁の旨味が立体的に広がります。完成度が非常に高いです。やや厚みのある白（ベルディッキオ）を合わせていて、旨味と香りが一体感を堪能しました。
パスタは2皿構成。
まずは蛤とズッキーニのスパゲッティーニ。潮の香りがほんのりと立ち、ボッタルガのコクが後味に残る絶妙なバランス。パスタの茹で加減もいい。
由布院鰻のカチョエペペ仕立てのガルガネッリは、なんと鰻を煮鰻に。イタリアのエミリア・ロマーニャ州では鰻をトマトで煮て食べる文化があるそうです。鰻出汁と山椒と黒胡椒とペコリーノでカチョエペペ仕立てに。この日1番のお皿。
セコンドは京都中勢以の熟成但馬牛。この日は8週間熟成したミスジ。赤身とサシのバランスが素晴らしく、炭火で丁寧に焼かれて、香ばしくクリスピーな仕上がり、噛むごとに旨味が広がります。合わせた赤ワインは定番のサンジョベーゼ、熟成香と果実味が熟成肉の風味や凝縮感に見事にマッチ。
ドルチェも印象的でした。まずは白ワインのジュレをまとわせたオレンジのザバイオーネ。爽やかで涼やか。
そしてピスタチオのクレームブリュレは、香ばしいキャラメリゼと濃厚なピスタチオのクリームが溶け合い、記憶に残る締めくくり。
この日のワインペアリングも素晴らしく、イェルマンやヴェルディッキオといったイタリア各地の白、エトナロッソ等の赤など、すべての料理と自然に寄り添うセレクトに感心しました。
3回目の訪問でしたが、毎回違った魅力に出会えます。おまかせで魚や野菜を大分から空輸してもらってるそう。
後、使ってるお皿も個性的です。
接客も丁寧で、静かなエリアにあって、記念日や大切な時間を過ごすのにぴったりの店です。個室もありますがシェフと話せるカウンター席がおすすめです。次回は冬に友人を誘って、また新しい料理を味わいに訪れたいと思います。