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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
【西28丁目】”すし宮川”
札幌市中央区、西28丁目駅から徒歩5分ほどのところにある寿司店へ。
このお寿司を食べるために、飛行機で札幌までやってきました。
店主の宮川政明氏は、銀座の名店”鮨よしたけ”や、よしたけプロデュースの香港のお店で板長を務めたのち、2014年に独立。
東京・三越前のマンダリンオリエンタルにも”鮨 心 by 宮川”として出店されています。
2017年には『ミシュランガイド北海道特別版』で三つ星を獲得。寿司ファンなら知らぬ人はいない、北海道屈指の予約困難店です。
カウンターはわずか7席のみのプラチナシート。（個室は1室）
夜営業のみで、17:00〜、19:30〜の二部制。
この日は19:30〜の二部にお伺いしました。
手前にはウェイティングルームのようなスペースがあり、入って左手に個室、奥にL字のメインカウンターが広がります。
まずカウンター席に座って感じたのは、つけ場の高さ。
同じ目線でより近くに感じられ、間近で宮川親方の所作を堪能できます。
お料理は一品料理から握りまでのおまかせコース（30,000円）のみ。
まずは、カラスミをかけた”アスパラプリン”から。
”マハタ”
昆布締めでお造りとして提供。
炭火で皮目を炙り、おろしポン酢に茗荷、ネギを添えていただきます。
食感を残しつつ、旨みを引き出す見事な仕事。
”ミズダコ・あん肝”
大根で炊かれたミズダコ。
柔らかく煮られていますが、適度な弾力も残されており、とても好みの仕上がりでした。
あん肝は濃厚で、コクと甘みが際立ちます。
ここで日本酒に突入。もう、最高…。
”蝦夷鮑”
こちらのスペシャリテ、蒸し鮑。
煮汁と肝で作られたクリーミーなソース。
最後に、切り立て（？）の酸味の立った酢飯を加えてリゾット風に。
まろやかなソースとの相性が抜群でした。
”サクラマス”
揚げ出汁仕立てで。
ホワイトアスパラと花山椒を添えて。
ふわっと柔らかな身。
素直に「やっぱり和食っていいな」と感じさせられる逸品。
ここから握りへ。まずは”赤貝”から。
やや小ぶりですが、酢飯とネタのバランスが絶妙。
酢飯は3種類をブレンド。
”口に入れたインパクトよりも、余韻の長さを大事にする”宮川親方の握りは、手に取っても崩れないのに、咀嚼すると酢飯がほろほろとほどけていきます。
特に”中トロ柵付け”は、脳天を突き抜けるような美味しさ。
この日、最も印象に残った一貫でした。
酢飯を包み込むように握られたその姿は、まるで芸術品。
ガリは辛さがなく、細かく刻まれていて、まるで切り干し大根のような独特な食感。（そしてかなり好みでした）
”穴子の棒寿司”には、中に干瓢、椎茸、ガリ、紫蘇、ごまが入っています。
ふわっと甘い玉子は、もはやスイーツのよう。
ミシュラン三つ星のお寿司が3万円でいただけるなんて、むしろ安く感じてしまいました。
さらにお酒の値付けも良心的で、お会計は想像をかなり下回りました。
非の打ちどころがないお寿司。
宮川親方は口数こそ多くはないものの、物腰柔らかく、最後まで心地よい時間を過ごせました。
これだけの評価を受けるのも納得です。
またぜひ伺いたいと思います。
またここに来れるように頑張ろう。
【おまかせコース】(30,000円)
•アスパラプリン
•マハタ昆布締め
•ホッキ貝
•ミズダコ、あん肝
•蒸し鮑(蝦夷鮑)(函館)
•サクラマス揚げ出汁(ホワイトアスパラ、花山椒)
握り
•赤貝
•鯵
•アカムツ
•中トロ柵付け
•大根漬物
•車海老
•馬糞雲丹
•渡り蟹 内子 シャリ
•穴子 棒寿司(干瓢、椎茸、ガリ、紫蘇、ゴマ)
•中落ち(巻物)
•しじみお味噌汁
•玉