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中洲のビル3階にひっそり構える「炭とおがわ」。20:30スタートの回で訪問。ここは18:00〜と20:30〜の二部制で、予約は約1年待ちという超人気店。その時点で期待値はかなり高め。
今回は15,000円のコース。一品目から空気が変わる。炭の香りをまとわせた料理は、どれも主張しすぎず、でも印象にしっかり残る。一品一品がとにかく繊細で、仕事の丁寧さが伝わってくる構成。
中でもうなぎは別格。焼き加減が完璧で、皮は香ばしく身はふわっと。余計な脂を感じさせないのに旨みは濃い。これは正直、記憶に残る一皿。
コース終盤まで一切のダレなし。〆に出てきた生わらび餅も驚く完成度で、口に入れた瞬間にとろける。最後まで「美味しい」で締めてくるのが憎い。
もう次の予約が楽しみになる、そんな一夜でした。