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口取り
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蛸とズッキーニ梅肉添え(口取り)
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穴子の白和え焼き(口取り)
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枝豆(口取り)
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湯葉縮緬(口取り)
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酒盗チーズ(口取り)
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おくらおかか和え(口取り)
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蛤はんぺい(口取り)
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蛤潮汁(蛤、じゅんさい、芽葱、口柚子)(椀盛)
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鯛 伊勢鮪 あしらい一式(向付け)
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焼蛤(焼物)
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蛤一人鍋(鍋)
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蛤一人鍋(鍋)
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蛤一人鍋(鍋)
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蛤一人鍋(鍋)
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蛤磯辺揚げ ししとう(揚げ物)
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蛤バター焼(強肴)
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時雨釜飯(お食事)
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時雨釜飯(お食事)
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時雨釜飯(お食事)
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時雨釜飯(お食事)
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時雨釜飯(お食事)
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蛤赤味噌仕立て(蛤、木の芽)(留椀)
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五種盛(香の物)
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水物
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エビスビール
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ルイ・マックス シャブリ プルミエ・クリュ ヴァイヨン
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ジョスメイヤー フルール・ド・ロテュス
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青雲 大吟醸
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キュヴェ・トラディション ピノ・ノワール
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ドメーヌ・ド・バロナーク
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江戸時代なら宮(熱田)から七里の渡しで桑名に着くところですが、今は名古屋から近鉄電車に乗って桑名駅までものの20分。さらに桑名駅から徒歩15分ほどでかつての桑名宿の宿場町に到着します。
今も当時の宿場町らしい風情を残すこの界隈。この日は、その静かな通りの中ほどに佇む蛤料理の名店に伺いました。
厳かな雰囲気が漂う料亭らしい料亭。日ごろカジュアルな店しか知らない私には少々敷居が高い趣ですが、それだけに一層期待も大きくなります(^^)
思い起こすとせいぜい雛祭りくらいで、今まであまりキチンと食べた記憶がない蛤料理。九十九里など鹿島灘の蛤は春先が旬といわれますが、産卵期の違いから桑名の蛤は6月〜7月が旬。まさに旬の真っ只中の蛤がいただける絶好のタイミングです。
いただいた蛤懐石のコースは、口取りに蛸とズッキーニ梅肉添え、穴子の白和え焼き、枝豆、湯葉縮緬、酒盗チーズ、おくらおかか和え、蛤はんぺいでスタート。蛤はまだ片鱗しか見せませんが、どの料理もとても上品な味わいで蛤への期待は益々増すばかり(^^♪
そして、次からはいよいよ蛤が続々と登場となります。
椀盛は蛤潮汁。蛤のほかじゅんさい、芽葱、口柚子が彩りを添えています。
プルンぷるんの蛤の第一弾! この食感と旨味はとても文章に出来ません(^^;
もちろん出汁の味わいも絶妙。第一弾からかなりのインパクトですね。
向付けは、鯛と伊勢鮪。養殖ものとはいえ冷凍していない生鮪ならでは美味しさがあります。
焼物は桑名名物の焼蛤。大きくな蛤の殻を仲居さんが手際良く開けてくれるのですが、開けた途端に目に飛び込む蛤の美しさといったら! ツヤツヤとまるで輝いているように見えるほどです。
次の蛤一人鍋は日の出の十八番。紙鍋でいただく蛤鍋は、シンプルであるからこそ蛤の美しさをとことん引き出しているようです。
このあたりで十分満足しかかっていたのですが、次に出た蛤磯辺揚げのインパクトがまた鮮烈。海苔で巻いた蛤の天ぷらなのですが、海苔の中に閉じ込められたジューシーな蛤は本当に言葉を失うほどの旨味でした。
その後も、ホタテ以上に美味しく感じた蛤バター焼や時雨釜飯に至るまで、文字どおりの蛤三昧。蛤がこんなにも美味しい食材だったということを、あらためて気づかせてくれた一日でした(^^)/