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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
フレンチ界の巨匠、アランデュカス氏が、最も信頼する日本人シェフ、小島シェフによるレストラン、ベージュアランデュカス。
銀座はシャネルのビルにお店はあります。
ベージュや、モノトーンで構成された内装は、上質で柔らかな雰囲気。
窓も大きく開放的でより空間が広く感じます。
シェフは、フランスのレストラン界の礎を築いた数々の名シェフのもとで修行。
モナコのルイキャーンズで感銘を受け、当時学んだ料理の影響を大きく受けている、
デュカス氏はもちろん各国のシェフとのコラボレーションも多々行われています。
ディナーでの利用なので基本はプリフィックス。
あとはおまかせコースとベジタリアンメニュー。
前菜、メイン、デセール各5種以上から選べるので迷います。
メイン二品のプリフィックスに。
【アペリティフ】
昆布だしがしっかり効いていて、澄んだブイヨンと、乾燥させた野菜のチップス。
野菜の自然あるな甘みが感じられます。
ワインビネガーがしっかり効いたほうれん草の、酸味のあるピューレをつけて。
【アミューズ】
ひよこ豆のムースに、大麦や、お米のチップス、あさりと、食感のアクセントが豊富。
ダイダイの酸味を加えて軽やかに。
【前菜】
国産本マグロの中トロのグリエ。
ミキュイの軽い火入れ。
サラサラながらしっかり旨味の詰まったセップ茸のソース 。
ダイダイによる酸味と香りがいいアクセント。
ソースが絡んで苦味が抑えられた、トレビス 。
ふきのとうのペーストなどを添えてよりディープな味わいに。
マグロ自体の旨味が強いので、他とのバランスが良いです。
【ポワソン】
海藻パンとともに焼き上げたムニエルじたての松川ガレイ。
繊細な火入れで微塵のパサつきもなく、感動。
バターに頼らず魚の旨味を詰め込んだ魚のジュのソース。
あおさのりのペーストを添えて、旨味を増強。
グリルしたものなど、様々なウイキョウで香りのアクセント。
これはシンプルながら、かなり満足の一皿。
【ヴィヤンド】
厚切りの部分と、ミンチの部分、フォアグラなどと温度差をつけることでそれぞれ適切な状態に仕上げることを可能にしている。
パテアンクルートの生地を使用しているので、通常より厚みにある膜につつまれてじっくりとより間接的に中に火が入る。
そこがシェフのこだわりだそう。
そこに、ジビエや野菜などの出汁と赤ワイン、酸味のある果実を加えたソースポワラードを合せ、ジビエと相性の良いビーツや、洋ナシを添えます。
これもこだわりの詰まったほかにはない一品。
【デセール】
新潟県佐渡島のイチジクのコンフィチュールと、フレッシュなもの、フランボワーズのシャーベットに、梅や、ゆかりのアクセントを加えたもの。
ミニャルディーズは、デュカスのチョコ。
素材本来の良さを生かすデュカスのスタイルがアミューズの乾燥野菜と出汁からもう現れているなあと感じました。
その分食材の質や火入れなどの技術が目立つわけですが、そこがもう秀逸で感動でした。
随所に酸味を忍ばせて軽やかに仕上げたり、スパイスやハーブを巧みに使う点が、とても好み。
シンプルな出汁のソースがおいしく、基礎にも忠実。
同じ食材をいろいろな調理法で出すのもデュカスらしく、ガルニの盛り付けも美しい。
サービス陣も知識豊富で安定しています。