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名物の花林巻き
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茄子のから揚げ
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下仁田ネギの揚げ餅のお椀
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蠣とアンコウのソース
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焼き鯖の棒寿司磯部風
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白子
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このポン酢が素晴らしい
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ふぐのから揚げ
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ソースにシャリを入れて
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リゾット風に頂く
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茶碗蒸し
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茶碗蒸し
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ランキングと口コミで探せるグルメサイト
グルメキュレーションサイト
毎日の外食が楽しくなるグルメ情報
国際色豊かな巨大ターミナルの錦糸町と秋葉原に挟まれた両国。
葛飾北斎、勝海舟生誕の地でもあり、時代劇を見ていると、このあたりの地名が良く出てくる。
個人的に、２３区で、唯一”江戸”という文字が似合うエリアだと思う。
そんな江戸・両国の静かな住宅街にお店はある。
１０代前半で食の道を志し、３０代で自らの店を持つと宣言した青年は、見事目的を果たし、その拠点を”華林”と名付けた。
カテゴリーで分ければと”鮨・寿司”となるのだが、店名の前に”鮨”という文字を入れなかったのには、大将なりの理由があるという。
大将の橋本氏は、京都の料亭で修業も経験されており、その時の日本料理の奥行と可能性に心打たれ「鮨屋の枠を超えた挑戦を」という意味が込められての事だという。
それは食事をすると”なるほど！”とまさに想うことになる。
今回はおまかせコースにしたが、握りはもちろん、摘みと言ってしまったら申し訳ないほどのお皿がとてつもないレベルの高さ。
最初に供されたのは、大将の地元、宮崎県の茄子を使ったから揚げ。
この日は非常に寒く、体を温める意味でも熱燗をいただいたのが、このお酒との相性がとてもよかった。
噛むと揚げているので外は軽くパリッとしているが、中は茄子独特の柔らかさ、甘味と風味があふれ出してくる。
合わせたバター味噌が程よい塩味で、これからの食欲を喚起してくれる。
御椀、下仁田ネギの揚げ餅。
寿司屋とは思えぬほど手の込んだお椀で、これはもう懐石料理の１品に近い。
続くふぐのから揚げにも驚いた。
そもそも寿司屋でふぐを”から揚げ”にしてしまおうという発想も驚くが、そこに使われているソースがまたすごい。
写真だけ見ると色がやや黒いので、いわゆる揚げ物に合う一般的なソースのように見えるが、べースは赤ワインを使ってじっくりと仕込みをされている。
残ったこのソースにシャリを少し混ぜ、リゾットのようにしていただいたが、もはやフレンチの仕事だ。
さて、肝心の握りだが、こちらはシャリが少し硬め。
私はこれくらいの方が好き。
大将は食べることも大好きのよう。
もちろんそれはご自身の勉強のためという意味も込めてのことだと思うが、会話の中で印象に残っているのは「お客様より舌が肥えていないと、期待に応えられないですからね」とおっしゃったこと。
その心意気、若さ、勢い、可能性にあふれた姿は、これからの日本料理界を担う覚悟さえ感じた。同時にそんな背中を見て応援したいと僭越ながら思った。
おまかせ握りコースと、熱燗、冷酒２合（１合＋１合）、別途の白子ポン酢を合わせて１人18000円。
非常にリーズナブルでお値段以上はもちろんだ。
おそらく食事が好きな方がこのお店に来れば、いかに素晴らしい仕事をされるかがわかって頂けると思うし、この金額で信じられないとビックリされるのではないだろうか。
予約が取れなくなる前に次回も早めに行こうと思いました。
来年には例の”星”さえ狙えと思う。
訪問日:2025年1月11日
利用カメラ：パナソニックD90 APSC